Happy New Year! 明けましておめでとうございます!

Happy New Year! 明けましておめでとうございます! I thought I couldn’t top 2011 and 2012 for life experiences, but I was wrong. 2013, you have been something else entirely. Here are my highlights of what has been a truly life-changing year.

I was lucky enough to travel all over Japan and the world. I don’t think I’ll ever top this year for travelling!

I went Seoul-searching to South Korea in March, on my first completely solo international trip. It was wonderful and I can’t wait to go back.

SeoulSeoul2I slowly mended a broken heart in the spring, and found my smile again in time to thoroughly enjoy my last few months in Japan. Thank you to everyone who helped me through that difficult time. You know who you are.

In June I braved monsoon rains to visit steamy Taiwan; land of beautiful temples, delicious food and bubble tea, with three great Japan friends.1044408_10100810622228965_409497567_n

Taiwan2I climbed several mountains over the year, in Japan and the USA. Most notably in July, the beautiful but beastly 3,776m Mount Fuji (thank goodness for oxygen canisters). I watched the sun rise from the top of Japan with about two thousand other people. It was very special.

At the top of Kaimondake, a 924m perfectly conical volcanic peak next to the ocean in Kagoshima, south Jana

At the top of Kaimondake, a 924m perfectly conical volcanic peak next to the ocean in my old home prefecture of Kagoshima, south Japan

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Racing the sunrise to the top of Japan

Fuji2In August I lay on hot white sand beaches; and swam in turquoise seas with tropical fish in Okinawa, Japan’s southern island paradise. It was the best possible goodbye to my beloved home of two years.

OkinawaOkinawa2Also in August, after a full month of goodbye parties, dinners and speeches, I said a very reluctant farewell (for now) to Japan, and the wonderful people that made my two years there so special. I miss them every day.

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Sayonara Japan 😦

I returned to the UK and enjoyed reconnecting with my family and UK friends. I got excited about home comforts like English tea and all-important real cheese. But I felt like an alien in my own country. I struggled with reverse culture shock, homesickness for Japan and the loss of my identity. After living overseas for two years, I now know that I can never truly “go home”… and that is both a sad and wonderful thought.

I was asked to be a bridesmaid for the third time, for one of my oldest friends.

I welcomed a niece into the world on September 28th, and am now a doting auntie to beautiful Alana Adele. The day after she was born, I became a surrogate auntie to Hiroki Lassen Thacker, the handsome son of two of my closest Japan friends. I can’t wait to meet him!

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Very proud Auntie Amy!

In October, I packed my bags yet again and took off for two months to the beautiful northwest USA to see a very special person, after 19 months apart. Words don’t suffice, but safe to say it was a truly life-changing trip :)) more photos to follow when I get round to uploading them.

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The San Francisco skyline

Donner Lake

Donner Lake, Truckee, California

Caddy, our '66 roadtrip ride

Caddy, our ’66 roadtrip ride

Mount Lassen, Oregon

Mount Lassen, Oregon

Now here I am, on the first anniversary of my sister’s wedding (where has all the time gone?), reliving my memories of that wonderful day and night spent with family and friends, and everything that followed in 2013. Looking back over it all is overwhelming!

There have been more highs and lows than I thought I would experience in a lifetime, let alone twelve short months. I’m grateful for everything that I’ve seen, done and experienced this year; and for all the wonderful people I’ve met, got to know better, been reunited with and said goodbye to (for now). 2013, you were unbelievable!

I wish you a magical New Year’s Eve/Day (depending on which timezone you’re in right now) and a happy, healthy 2014, wherever in the world you call home. Here’s to 2014, the year of the horse!

明けましておめでとうございます! 2014年よろしくお願いします.

Silk and Self-Discipline: The Art of Kimono Kitsuke

It’s been a very long time since my last post. Ten months to be precise. I guess life took over and I found myself with less time and energy to devote to documenting my thoughts and feelings about my life in Japan. I regret this; and have recently found myself thinking that I really ought to put pen to paper, or rather, fingers to keypad once more. The fact that I have only four months left in Sendai, coupled with a recent flurry of  “are you going to write another blog entry?” queries from friends and family have cemented my resolve. So here I am, back and ready to write again!

As many of you may know, I spent the latter part of 2012 constantly busy and more than a little stressed, due to two big events in early December that I (bravely? Foolishly?) signed up for. They fell within only one week of each other; and in hindsight it probably would have been sensible to focus on one, rather than both ventures. However, challenging myself and trying new things is my passion, so of course, I jumped in feet-first and took on both.

My first endeavor was attempting the Japanese Language Proficiency Test; a listening and reading exam designed to test competency in Japanese. I arrived in Japan in August 2011 with absolutely no Japanese skills at all, unable even to write my own name. I had to carry a cheat sheet around with me at all times, in case I needed to do an obligatory on the spot self-introduction, or in case someone asked me where I lived, where I was from, how old I was. I literally knew nothing. However, through determined but often reluctant self-study and weekly classes, I’ve progressed from a mute being who can’t comprehend anything that’s going on around me, to someone who, although still very much occasionally sounding like an idiotic child, can function fairly competently in everyday life. I wanted something to show for my hours of brain-straining study, so I decided to take the JLPT in early December.

Due to my aforementioned tenacity and a deep-rooted need to push myself to my limits, I opted to take a level higher than I should have done, with the belief that I would learn far more studying for that level than the lower level. A great theory (in theory), but what it also meant was that I had to spend the entire late autumn and winter cramming in as much study as I could. In between classes, at lunchtime, in the evenings, at weekends, on trains, buses, planes, boats, bullet trains, in my sleep; you name the time and place- I studied there! I tried my best, and was prepared for the exam to be extremely difficult, nigh impossible. I was right.  No way have I passed, I thought. My low self expectations were duly fulfilled when the results came out and I saw the lovely word “FAIL” plastered across my screen. Wonderful. Ah well, after a day of wallowing and chastising myself quite horribly, I decided that worse things happen at sea. Onwards and upwards; if at first you don’t succeed, try try again; etc. And after I dissected my scores, I found that I actually didn’t do as badly as I first thought.

But this is not a self-study soliloquy.  It is thankfully my second winter venture that is the focus of this post; that of how I learned the traditional Japanese art of kimono kitsuke (dressing) in a mere three months, before taking part in a national Kimono Dressing competition. It’s something I’m very proud of, and something that I want to commit to memory, so here goes.

I have always been fascinated by kimono. Surely there has never been a more exquisite, intricate, elegant, colourful, refined, detailed (insert various other superlatives) item of clothing to put on your back. In fact, when I began to study Japanese and learned the literal translation of kimono– something to wear; I was shocked and almost indignant that something so beautiful could have such a mundane name. But that’s Japanese for you- ever modest and unpretentious. Throughout my adult life I have devoured both fictional and factual books about geisha­, that most famous and sadly misunderstood symbol of Japan. Their beauty, mystery, and utter devotion to their gruelling training and careers instil the greatest respect and admiration in me. A geisha, with her years of training in traditional Japanese arts such as tea ceremony, calligraphy, singing, shamisen-playing and dance, is like a living museum of traditional Japanese culture. The ubiquitous kimono she wears, the stunning kanzashi (ornaments) in her hair, the beautiful dancing fan she carries; all these things seem to represent the highest achievements in the traditional Japanese arts. Seeing a real geisha, or rather, geiko, as they’re known in local dialect; rushing to work at dusk in Gion, Kyoto and Japan’s most traditional and respected geisha district, is one of my top experiences in Japan.

The exquisite and refined, yet subtle and understated beauty of a geisha and her modest kimono, compared with the bright, eye-catching, almost garish colours and patterns in the kimono of her child-like younger sister, the maiko, or apprentice geisha, fascinate and enthrall me. Although I was a little embarrassed at doing something so ‘touristy’, being dressed and made up like a maiko in Kyoto on New Year’s Eve 2011 was a truly wonderful experience. Kimono do something wonderful to the wearer. Partly due to the swathes of under-robes and padding one must wear beneath a kimono and the thick, heavy obi or sash, it’s very difficult to slouch, or walk lazily while wearing kimono. One is physically forced to sit, stand and walk as straight-backed as a child. But I think it’s more than that. The elegance, refinement and beauty of kimono makes you feel as elegant and graceful as the clothes you are wearing. When I wear kimono, I feel effortlessly poised, calm, and centred. I stand taller, with a straight back, and I find myself walking with my head held high. It’s a feeling that I wish I could carry with me all the time, even when I remove my kimono.

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A shot from when I was made up and dressed like a maiko in Kyoto on New Year’s Eve 2011

So, that’s just a little background about my fascination with kimono. As you can imagine, when I got the chance to actually learn how to dress myself in this most iconic of clothes, I jumped at it. My friend told me she had been invited to train for and take part in the Kyuushu leg of the All Japan Kimono Competition in December and despite my already busy schedule I had an instant “Wow, I want to do that!” reaction. I registered my interest and in early October, three months before the competition, my training began.

My teacher, Uchino Sensei, a slight local woman of around 50 years old, with a kind face, warm demeanour and infectious laughter, couldn’t have been a more wonderful instructor. She has been practicing kitsuke for 27 years; almost my entire life. Amazingly, she even has her own teacher; a woman in her late eighties, which goes some way to illustrate the time it takes to perfect this most refined and precise of Japanese arts.

Uchino Sensei speaks no English at all, so my twice to thrice weekly lessons with her were not only practice in kimono, but in the Japanese language itself. I won’t lie; it was sometimes a real struggle to get home after a long day teaching, to grab a mere 30 minutes respite before Uchino Sensei arrived for a one or two hour lesson. That’s where the title of this entry comes from; the self-discipline required in committing to regular lessons and frequent solo practice, on top of studying for my Japanese exam was considerable. But I loved the evenings Uchino Sensei and I spent together in my apartment, kneeling in seiza on my tatami living room floor, folding, refolding and unfolding swathes of exquisite fabric as I slowly but surely got to grips with how to dress myself in full kimono regalia. She was unwaveringly patient with this awkward, clumsy, forgetful, ‘long-legged’ foreigner who probably butchered her language and her discipline. She would heap praise on my efforts; and even when I made mistakes, she was full of encouragement and made me feel like I was making real progress. It’s no easy feat to learn an ancient tradition in a language you can barely understand; and I think she understood and respected that. In fact, so much respect did she show me, that she insisted on calling me ‘Amy Sensei’- sensei being the honorific title given to teachers, doctors, lawyers and masters of an art or discipline. I was humbled by the respect she showed me. I was, after all, nothing more than an ignorant child in comparison to her; and it made me somewhat uncomfortable that a master of a traditional Japanese art, and someone old enough to be my mother would address me with that respectful honorific. Eventually, I told her (in garbled Japanese) that just ‘Amy’ was fine, and for one or two lessons she managed it. However, she soon reverted back to ‘Amy Sensei.’ To this day, she still uses this title whenever she talks to or emails me.

My first lesson was a joint one with my friend. Uchino Sensei dressed us both in the kimono and obi that she had chosen for us. I felt full of excitement; although I was also very daunted by the task in hand. There seemed an unending list of things to remember to do; as well as the order in which to do them. Even which hand you use at any given time is important. This is an art after all; and it’s an art that is purely about aesthetic beauty. Everything has to be just so; to show off the exquisite fabric and simple yet elegant shape of kimono to full effect. They can take years to produce and can cost several millions of yen to buy; so it’s understandable that kitsuke pays minute detail to every stage of the dressing process. Indeed, geisha often name their custom-made, one of a kind kimono, and they are given as much respect and reverence as any important piece of artwork.

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In my opinion, one of the most fascinating things about kimono and obi is the care in which they are chosen and the rules which govern what can be worn when. Everything from the current season to the complexion, age and marital status of the wearer has a bearing on what colours, patterns and combinations are acceptable. Generally, married women wear much simpler and understated kimono of muted colours and patterns, with their obi tied in an uncomplicated style. These simple shapes and colours give them an air of mature grace, and of worldliness. Unmarried women, by contrast, wear kimono of brighter colours and more intricate patterns, with a vibrant obi tied in a more complicated style. Girls wear the brightest colours of all; and they look just like little jewels.

The kimono Uchino Sensei chose for me wasn’t one of my favourite green, blue or purple colours, but a dusky orange with an intricate and colourful pattern of traditional Japanese images. The collar was jade green however, one of my favourites. The obi too wasn’t one that immediately matched; in my uneducated opinion at least. It was black, patterned with red, white and gold butterflies. However, once Uchino Sensei had dressed me for the first time and I looked in the mirror, my opinion changed. Although unconventional, the colours really worked together. She had obviously chosen well and knew exactly what would suit me. I still prefer the superb shimmery blue-green kimono I wore when I was dressed as a maiko in Kyoto, but I became very attached to that orange kimono over the coming months.

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Practice, practice, practice

My routine over the next two months was much the same each week. As well as the three hour Saturday morning practice sessions I attended at a local culture centre with other kitsuke students, including one of my own High School boys (for there was a men and boys’ competition section too); Uchino Sensei would come to my apartment once or twice a week; increasing to three times a week in the month before the competition. We would practice together for an hour or an hour and a half; and she would offer advice and critique my efforts. Although she was obviously serious about and dedicated to her discipline, she was always light-hearted and full of fun; and often laughed uncontrollably at my comical demeanour and attempts to explain my frequent japes and ‘silly foreigner’ mistakes to her (those who know me well will understand what I mean by japes).

I tried to practice by myself at least once a week too, ever aware that the clock was ticking, quite literally. I found out early on that in the competition, we were expected to fold the obi, put on the kimono, and then put on the obi on stage, in front of 10 judges and an audience of around 1000 people, in no more than seven minutes. In the early days, it seemed like an impossible feat. But as I practiced more and became more dextrous at folding the fabric and remembering the order in which to do things, I gradually got faster and faster. If anything, I went a bit too fast, which ultimately proved to be my downfall on competition day. But more on that later.

The more local people I told about my new hobby and goal, the more I felt like I was doing something admirable. I can’t count the people, especially women, whose mouths dropped open in amazement when I told them I was learning how to dress myself in kimono. The fact is that kimono kitsuke has become a much less widely-practiced art than in its heyday. The popularity of Western clothing, the debilitating cost of traditional kimono, along with the difficulty in putting them on; combined with a recent trend for simpler, cheaper yukata (light, summer kimono often worn at festivals) and mass-produced, pre-folded obi that you can just slot into place; mean that fewer and fewer women and girls in Japan know how to dress themselves in the traditional clothing of their country. This strikes me as very sad. However, it’s not all doom and gloom. You can still see people in traditional dress fairly often, especially on special occasions and National Holidays such as January’s “Coming of Age Day”, when young adults who’ve turned 20 (Japan’s age of responsibility) in the previous year put on their finest and celebrate becoming an adult. So, it’s my personal hope that Japan’s youth don’t lose all interest in this most beautiful and refined part of their heritage.

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So, back to my tale of silken toil. As December the 9th drew ever nearer, I began to get more and more nervous. As something I’ve been interested in for so long and something I’d invested so much time and effort into, I really wanted to do my best. So I committed to yet more lessons and self-practice. I even found myself practicing in my head while I was at school or driving. I began to be pleased with my efforts, and found that it was becoming possible to match seams and collars and make smooth folds, without the help of the previously omnipresent mirror.

Now, just to give you an idea of what I was up against, I’ll talk about what dressing in full kimono regalia entails. While all you actually see is the gorgeous colours and patterns of the kimono and obi, they are really only the outer covers of an intricate, painstakingly applied and quite restrictive cocoon of layers, straps, wraps and clips. If you’ve ever tried eating, drinking or going to the toilet- and a Japanese squat toilet no less- in full kimono, then you will understand what I am talking about.

First, you have to choose a suitable base layer. Traditionally, kimono are worn with only the under robes; i.e. no Western underwear, but thankfully, I was permitted to wear leggings and a vest top under mine. White socks with the big toe separated are also worn; these are called tabi. The first stage of kitsuke is wrapping the body above the hip bones and below the bosom with a series of towels. This is to give the desired tube-like, curve-free shape that kimono require. No ladylike curves are wanted here! I was even told to wear a sports bra, to flatten me out. In complete contrast to modern Western women’s clothing, kimono are designed to hide any feminine curves. Now I am no J-Lo, but I am a twenty-eight year old Western woman, and even I have hips, curves and a slightly hourglass figure, so I had to wrap two towels around my middle to hide this. I enjoyed the sensation actually; it felt warm and cosy. The padding doesn’t end there. Next comes a rather amusing pad with a velco strap attached to it. This, if you please, is to flatten your derrière. It always gave me a pleasant surprise when after practice, I slowly peeled off my many layers and padding, to rediscover that yes, I do actually have feminine curves under all those layers!

Next is the first under robe; a thin, simple, short-sleeved white cotton robe which is tied behind with its sash. Then comes the lovely, silky main under robe; the kimono equivalent of a beautiful set of satin underwear. In this ilk, Uchino Sensei frequently reminded me not to reveal this robe on stage, as it’s the equivalent of flashing your bra and knickers. My robe was pale pink and patterned with flowers. It was cool and satiny soft; and I loved the almost liquid sensation of slipping it on. The collar, as was revealed to my surprise just before the competition, was white and embroidered with an exquisite pattern of pink and orange flowers. Uchino Sensei kept a temporary white cover over it to protect it until a week before the competition, which I had no idea about until she proudly ripped it off. This robe is a little more difficult to put on. You have to hold the ‘lapels’ and pull it backwards from the front, so that the back of the collar is in the middle of your back, reach behind, right up your own back to pass the sash ties through a loop, pull them forwards and tie it in front. After that, you have to pull it down in several places to smooth it. A beautifully smooth under robe means a beautiful smooth, wrinkle-free kimono. The reason for the pulling down is to reveal just a few vertebrae of the neck. This area was traditionally an alluring one in Japanese culture; and is indeed the only part of the body, as well as the face and hands, that is on show while wearing kimono.Image

In my silky undies

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The back of the neck: kimono equivalent of a flash of leg or a hint of cleavage

Next comes the first hip wrap: a velco strap which you wrap tightly around your hips, unsurprisingly. This concludes the ‘underwear’ section of dressing in kimono. Another, wider strap follows, which is put tightly around the body just under the boobs. This is what the obi will be slotted in to. The next step is to put on the actual kimono, followed by the obi. For the competition, we were to go on stage already in all our padding and under robes, carrying our unfolded obi with the kimono on and strapped closed temporarily, to save our blushes. I was relieved when I learned this; as I’d had mortifying mental images of flashing my ‘underwear’ to the horrified judges and audience! On stage, we had to fold the obi, re-do the kimono properly, and then put on the obi; in my opinion the most difficult part of the whole process. I was told to kneel in seiza before the judges, and bow deeply and gracefully before beginning to fold the obi.

An obi is an integral part of kimono, and sometimes can cost more than the kimono itself. It’s a very long, wide strip of gorgeously coloured and patterned fabric, which one somehow has to fold into an intricate shape; in my case a kind of big bow. The bow goes in the middle of the upper back, with the unfolded part wrapping tightly around the middle of the body. Folding an obi is not at all unlike that other most famous of traditional Japanese arts: origami. The bow shape is made by securing the obi to a pink silk-covered contraption with various poppers and sashes. I unfortunately don’t know its name, but it’s a genius invention! It’s the centre of the whole obi masterpiece.

It’s quite difficult to explain how to fold an obi without showing you how to do it, so I’ll skim over this part and simply say that it involves a lot of folding, tugging and adjusting, and the clipping and unclipping of a decorative cord. After finishing the obi, it was time to re-do the kimono. This involved standing (very difficult in traditional Japanese clothing), standing at right angles to the judges to preserve modesty, and then wrapping the body in the main event. Again, this is quite difficult to explain without showing you, but suffice to say it involves the utmost precision and care in pulling, wrapping, folding, de-creasing and judging how much to pull the robe up. Too much, and the result will be a kimono that is too short. Not enough, and it’ll be too long and will be a tripping hazard. A clip and yet another Velcro strap holds it all in place. A final note is that all the seams have to match. Much easier said than done.

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Then, it was time to kneel again and begin the task of actually putting on the obi. First, you have to slip in a plastic sheet called an obi-ita. It’s a stiffener that keeps the untied part of the obi flat. Then, while kneeling, and with the utmost grace and elegance (very difficult to do while kneeling and concentrating hard, not to mention wearing very long sleeves), you have to carefully hold the heavy tied obi, bring it in front of you and then behind onto your back, and ignoring the screaming protests of your back and arm muscles, you have to reach up as high as you can and slot the aforementioned ‘contraption’ into the wide wrap that you earlier put on. You are also not allowed to lift your bottom off your legs; because it is considered unsightly. This is the part I found most difficult; not least because I suffer from frequent back pain, but also because halfway through my training I had to have a lump removed from my back, exactly where the obi contraption and bow had to go. Looking back now, I’m amazed that I continued training in the days and weeks after my operation. I was exhausted and in a lot of pain. But I persevered, and Uchino Sensei was very kind and would help me with this part to ease my pain.

Next, you tie the obi contraption’s sashes firmly, and tie the decorative cord in front; a lesson in itself. That knot was difficult to master! Finally, the obiage is tied. An obiage is a scarf-like piece of cloth that keeps the upper part of the obi knot in place and adds another layer of colour and pattern to the whole ensemble. Mine was green and white with a pleasing dappled texture. These days it is customary for an unmarried young woman to let her obiage show from underneath the obi in the front. A married woman will tuck it deeper in and only allow it to peek out. Obiage can be thought of as an undergarment for kimono, so letting it show is seen as a little provocative. The last stage is to reach around (again, very difficult) and pull the ‘wings’ of the bow over your shoulders to straighten them out and hide the obi contraption; then remove the obi clips. Step into your zori (tiny sandals) and mince to the front of the stage for the judges to get a good look at you. Finished!

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All done!

In November, I received a schedule for competition day which just about knocked me sideways. The day would start at the ungodly hour of 6 a.m, when we were to be at a local beauty salon for makeup and Nihon-gami; Japanese hair, or rather, the wareshinobu hairstyle distinctive of the maiko; complete with beautiful kanzashi hair ornaments. After that followed a non-stop day of activity, including a full dress rehearsal, before the actual competition itself. I calculated that I would be wearing the full kimono regalia, plus the zori sandals, from 8 a.m until at least 5 p.m. That is a very long time!

After a couple of hours at the salon, I’d been transformed from a sleepy, bleary-eyed bedrat into an elegant picture of femininity. From the neck up that is! It was pretty hilarious upon looking in the mirror; seeing myself staring back; my head a vision of elegance, but clad in a hoodie, trackpants and Ugg boots. Not so elegant. At the salon, we met three beautiful young sisters, who were all taking part in the children’s competition. We spent the next couple of hours gazing and smiling at each other in the mirror; they marvelling at my strange foreign-ness, me at their cuteness, flawless golden children’s skin and mirror-like glossy black hair. Children here really are the most beautiful I’ve ever seen.

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Transformed!

We headed back to the apartment to start the long dressing process; ready for the dress rehearsal. It was the first time I’d worn my kimono with my hair and make-up done; and it felt really different. I felt complete; finally the full picture. After dressing and making final checks that we had everything we’d need for the long day, we were driven to the Sendai Culture Hall, which very conveniently is only a couple of minutes away from the apartment building. Upon arriving, I was immediately aware of the bustling atmosphere at the Hall entrance as hundreds of people arrived. As I took in the number of competitors of all ages and both genders; and with quite a few non-Japanese faces too, all resplendent in their gorgeous clothes, I realised for the first time the scale and brevity of the competition. And I’ll admit, my stomach flipped a little. We ran into the little girls we’d met in the salon, and had some photos taken with them. They were so excited! Throughout the day, I kept bumping into them and they were just as excited each time.

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With the lovely sisters we met at the beauty salon

My fellow non-Japanese competitors and I were herded together by a lady holding a helpful “外国人” (gaikokujin: foreign people) sign high above the many beautifully decorated heads, and we were all lead up to our very own tatami room, which would be our base for the day. It was good to meet the other international competitors, and compare notes and experiences. As well as me and my Northern Irish Sendai friend, there was another English girl, a Canadian, a Taiwanese, several Chinese, and three Filipino ladies. There was also one token man; an American who must have felt rather outnumbered! The atmosphere was nervous but excited as we waited to be called for the dress rehearsal.

I don’t remember much about the dress rehearsal except the stage lights being very hot, my feet hurting in the tiny zori and being constantly stunned at the almost overwhelming amount of gorgeous colours, patterns, fabrics and textures on show around me. Everyone really did look exquisite. After the long dress rehearsal, we headed back upstairs to wait and have an early lunch. Now, if you’ve never tried to eat in full kimono regalia; let me tell you, it is not easy! I’m sure it was partly nerves, but I could eat barely any of the bento (boxed lunch) that was kindly given to me. The many swathes of fabric and all the tight bands around the middle make it almost impossible to eat. Even a slight increase in stomach size makes you feel like you’re suffocating. I had to stop eating after only a minute because I genuinely felt like I couldn’t breathe. Drinking caused the same problem; and had the added downside of causing the need to use the toilet, which I will devote a paragraph to now…

This most mundane of tasks, performed while wearing the most beautiful but, let’s be honest, the most inconvenient clothes known to man, becomes an entirely different experience. No quick unzipping and doing your business in under one minute here, oh no. You have to tie your long sleeves together, tuck them into your obi, and proceed to start peeling back the many layers. When you’ve done this, you have to clip them together out of the way, with a special toilet clip. Then comes the fun of using an infamous Japanese squatter while trying to balance the weight of your hair ornaments and your kimono, while standing on tiny teetering little sandals. Not easy! Needless to say, after my first experience, I opted to drink as little as possible during the day.

Eating in kimono is no easier than performing one’s toilet. The many layers, coupled with the tight, restrictive hip wraps, mean that it is pretty much impossible for the stomach to expand, even slightly; and when it does, it is not a pleasant or comfortable feeling. We were kindly presented with free bento (boxed lunches) at around 11 a.m; but sadly I was unable to eat a few mouthfuls without feeling absolutely stuffed to the gills and unable to breathe! A very effective diet method. I spent the entire day fasting, with only a few sips of green tea to quench my parched throat.

So, after the dress rehearsal, and trying unsuccessfully to eat something, the waiting for our section began. It was nerve-wracking. Some competitors practised their routine, but I decided that I’d done all I could and that last minute cramming could confuse me. Much like sitting an exam! Instead, I opted for a quick power nap…

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Time for forty winks

Finally, after a two hour wait, it was time to make our way on stage. I felt really nervous, but excited too. I’d worked so hard for three months, and it was finally time to put that hard work into action.

All I remember from actually being on stage was the heat and brightness of the lights, trying to remember to smile the whole time, trying not to fall over when standing up; and the pounding of my hammering heart which felt like it was right in my parched throat. I looked up at the audience a few times, and the only faces I could make out were those of the judges in the front row. There can only have been 600 or 700 people in the audience, but it felt like thousands.

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On stage (front, third from right)

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So, in less than ten minutes, it was all over. How did it go? Not great to be honest. Ever the perfectionist, I feel like I could have done a lot better. In my haste to finish within the seven minute time limit, I actually went too fast and made some silly mistakes such as pulling the right side of my kimono over too far, so that the seams on the left didn’t match up. Damn! That was something I always did well at during practice, and something Uchino Sensei had praised me on many times. The hem of my kimono was curled up, which I should have noticed and straightened out. I also forgot totally to take the obi clips out until I had actually shuffled to the front to show the judges my efforts. I had to discreetly reach up behind and try to remove them without detection.

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Being judged

But oh well! Only a trained eye could spot my mistakes; and friends and family have told me, after seeing the photos, that they think I looked wonderful. So, although I was really disappointed in myself and actually had to choke back frustrated tears, I worked hard and did my best; and it was a wonderful experience. And what’s more, I am now trained in a traditional Japanese art, and that is something I am very proud of.

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Waiting for the final results

By contrast, my friend did really well and got herself a silver second place trophy. This week, she will be travelling to Tokyo to take part in the grand final. Although frustrated with my own efforts, I was and am very happy for her. She worked even harder than me, and definitely deserved to come in second place! I will be thinking of her as she takes silk and self discipline to the next level in the big city.

After the foreigner section, we could finally relax and I enjoyed chatting with some of the other competitors. We re-dressed, correcting any errors so that we looked pretty for the end of the show. When the results were announced and the trophies handed out, we all gathered together on stage one last time to thank the audience and bow. After the show, we gathered in the foyer of the venue, and mingled with the audience. Conceited as it sounds, I relished those last moments of feeling so beautiful; and being admired! A highlight of the day was meeting my dear friends Matthew and Miyuki, who had kindly come to support me. It meant such a lot, because the tickets weren’t that cheap. I honestly felt how a child in a school play feels, when they see their parents in the audience! During the show I’d caught sight of Miyuki grinning and taking many of the above photos of me; and she was so moved when I met her in the foyer that she actually shed some tears. That really meant a lot. Matthew too was incredibly proud of me; and that was wonderful. Thank you to both of them for their support and encouragement!

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With my proud ‘Mum’ and ‘Dad’, Miyuki-chan and Matthew

What a day! It was wonderful, exciting and challenging but I was absolutely exhausted by the end of it. I had a professional photo taken; which I have framed and will treasure as a reminder of my experience with kimono; and indeed my life in Japan. I hope I never forget how to do it; and am considering buying my own kimono ensemble… after I’ve saved up a little!

I also got a certificate, which is proudly pinned on my kitchen wall. The words on it are rather lovely, so I will conclude this post by quoting them. I think they say a lot.

“As recognition of this individual, who has taken to heart the culturally different ways of traditional Japanese attire, participating in this Festival of Japanese Spirit and Beauty.”

Chopin Vs. Hip Hop: Culture Festivals at an Academic and Technical School

In June I experienced two School Festivals, one at both of my two schools. Like the schools themselves, they couldn’t have been more different to each other. I was far more involved in one festival than the other, but both were such a great experience that I thought it worth a bloggy thing to reflect on my experiences and ponder the differences between them.

The first was the Sendai High School Festival on Saturday 17th of June, on what turned out to be the hottest, wettest, most humid day in history. Seriously.

Sendai High School is my base or ‘main’ school and the one I spend most time at- usually three days a week. It’s one of the most academic High Schools in the area, so competition to get in is fierce. But once students have made the cut, the hard work doesn’t stop. Academic High School students and staff work long and hard hours, meticulously preparing for the extremely difficult University entrance exams they have to take in the third grade.

It’s a big school, with around 900 students and 100 staff. I teach only the 300 or so first grade students (aged 15-16) at this school. Apparently second and third year students don’t need Oral Communication classes with an ALT, because there is no English-speaking section on the Unversity entrance exams; so of course interactive English classes with a native speaker would be a waste of time for them. This ridiculous ‘logic’  frustrates me on a daily basis, but here is not the time nor place to complain about the indaequacies of the Japanese English Language education system so I will move on.

As well as working extremely hard on their studies, most students are dedicated members of one of the many school Clubs, which have them practicing for anything from one to three hours after school every single day and often at weekends too. I frequently see my students heading home, still in their uniforms, well after 8 p.m on week nights and often on Sundays too. The club selection at Sendai High School is really impressive, with everything on offer from traditional Japanese arts such as kyuudo (archery), kendo (fighting with a bamboo pole), shoudo (calligraphy) and tea ceremony; to Western imports such as baseball, basketball, football and volleyball. Sports aren’t the only thing on offer; students of a more cultural persuasion can join drama, dance, brass band and art clubs. And last but definitely not least; there is my very own English Conversation Club!

One of my main roles as ALT at Sendai High School is being the supervisor, teacher and as it has turned out, confidante and counsellor of the group of girls that make up ECC. I inherited the care of ECC from my predecssor Nick, who I knew had been a fantastic teacher, learning resource and friend for them and who they would sorely miss when he departed. I felt a big weight of responsbility on my shoulders! But, I had hope. I’d heard that being in charge of an after-school club could be very demanding at times, but was ultimately one of the most rewarding roles an ALT can have. Unlike my friends who work in many elementary and junior high schools and don’t get to know any students very well; I can get to know and bond with a small group of students and watch them develop their confidence over their time in the club.

ECC meet every Tuesday and Thursday after school, from 4 p.m until around 17:15. I could write a seperate blog entry just on everything I’ve done and experienced with this very special group of young women, but I must keep on track and just give a brief outline here. When I first arrived at Sendai High School almost exactly one year ago, ECC was made up of just 9 students in total; all second years bar two first year students. The Captain of ECC was until recently a student named Megumi; easily the most confident, self-assured, forward-thinking and opinionated young woman I have ever met. She also has clear goals for the future beyond getting married, having children and staying in Kagoshima-ken for her entire life.That is quite something in small-town, largely rural, deeply conservative southern Japan! I have spent many hours talking with Megumi, satisfying her insatiable appetite for information about foreign countries, cultures and customs. She also writes a regular journalfor me and has told me many things about  her hopes, dreams and fears. We have shared a lot with each other and although I know it’s not a good idea to bond with students too much, as they inevitably have to graduate and move on, I have definitely made a very special connection with her.

Megumi: a student I will never forget!

Anyway, I digress! So when I first arrived in Japan last year, Megumi and the rest of ECC were a great help in making me feel welcome and orienting me to the school, which at that time seemed like an unfathomable mass of asutere classrooms and corridors that all looked exactly the same. They were so excited about meeting me that they even made a huge “WELCOME AMY” banner that Nick and my supervisor held when they first collected me from Kagoshima Airport. The banner is pinned proudly in my bedroom, both covering the grimy wall and reminding me every day of why I’m here.

After eight months of twice-weekly meetings and a brilliant Christmas party, I’d really got to know the nine members of ECC and had come to think of them as little sisters, as well as students. It was inevitable that when new students joined in April, it would be strange at first. Partly due to my brightly-coloured hand-drawn cartoon poster inviting new members, and partly due to Megumi’s very persuasive recruitment speech at an assembly, a whopping EIGHT nervous first year members joined at the start of the new school year in April, swelling ECC’s membership to an almost unmanageable 17 members; the size of a small class. We could no longer use the cosy little clubroom that had become our home; and there was a sense of chaos and frustration at each meeting as I struggled to come up with activities that would suit the now big range of abilities, personalities and confidence levels in the club. I often left feeling frustrated, worried that the new members were confused and the old members bored.

However, after two months, the nervous new members had started to open up a little, and three even started writing me a daily diary, which are always a joy to read and reply to. The older members were admirable in the lengths they went to welcome these new ‘pack members’ to their world. Teenage girls, as I well know, can often be jealous and possessive of their friends and social circles. But Megumi and her other friends welcomed these strangers in with open arms and made every effort to make them feel included. In turn, the new members showed an incredible amount of respect to their elders. Although only one or two years younger than them, they referred to their seniors not as ‘chan’, the familiar add-on used with close friends; or even ‘san’, the more respectable honorific tagged onto both men and womens’ names. No, these girls actually referred to the senior members as ‘Senpai’- elder or senior. The amount of respect shown to others in Japanese culture, even by young teenage girls, never fails to astound me.

In mid May, probably later than we should have, we began our preparations for ECC’s contribution to the School Festival in June. The Japanese school festival (文化祭, bunkasai) is a very important event in the Japanese academic calendar, and one that weeks of preparation, planning and practice is put into. It’s an annual event held by most schools, at which students display their everyday achievements. Junior High School students who want to enter the high school or who are simply inquisitive may come to see what the schoolwork and atmosphere are like. Parents may also want to see what kind of work their children have been doing. According to Curriculum Guidelines by the Japanese Ministry of Education, school festivals are part of special activities and are defined as ‘events which aim to use the results of everyday learning to heighten motivation’. The festivals are parts of regular lessons in elementary (age 6 to 12), junior high (12 to 15) and high schools (15 to 18), so the students are obliged to contribute and attend in order to be able to graduate.

However despite this mandatory element, it’s always a lot of fun for everyone involved! Festivals are held to display the students’ learning, but many people visit the festivals just for fun. Food is served by students, and classrooms or gyms are transformed into temporary restaurants, art galleries and cafes. Dances, concerts, plays and exhibitions are performed by individual students or by various school clubs. Festivals are intended to be fun events, but it’s also the only opportunity each year for students to see what life is like in other schools. It’s also intended to enrich students’ lives by increasing social interaction. Finally, it’s a great way to encourage and nurture that famous Japanese characteristic: teamwork.

So, since mid May until the very day of the Festival, ECC worked tirelessly to prepare our club’s performance: a PowerPoint presentation of inspiring, touching and moving sayings from teachers, Japanese and Western celebrities, and yours truly. They started with the Japanese version, and with many hours of head-scratching, electronic-dictionary-bashing and my help, they finished with an English version too. This was a massive undertaking. Translation is never easy, but when you’re working with complex emotions, feelings and cultural differences, the task is rather daunting. Megumi and Kyoka, the second-year incoming Captain, told me that they frequently worked til 2 or 3 a.m on the presentation, timings and stage order. It’s safe to say that the members put their life and soul into preparing the presentation, practicing their pronunication and intonation and figuring out the order of the sayings. They also spent a lot of time taking both pensieve and amusing photos of all the teachers they asked to contribute.

So when the day finally dawned, tension was high and nerves were jangling. I arrived at school at 8:30 on a sopping wet, stiflingly humid Saturday morning in the height of rainy season (why the festival is held in the middle of the rains, and not in warm, sunny November when national Culture Day falls, I’ll never know) and could sense a real excitement in the air. The Festival opened with a beautiful piano solo of a Chopin piece which I should probably know the name of but ahem, I don’t. It was a very cultured way to begin the School Festival and certainly made sure that the atmosphere was very refined. Even by 9 a.m, it was already at least 30 degrees in the gymnasium; and the rain hammered down relentlessly outside. I remember thinking, as I shifted uncomfortably in my metal chair and tried to discreetly fan myself with my 100 yen fan, that the Japanese gaman spirit really is astounding. Gaman (我慢) is a term of Zen Buddhist origin which means “enduring the seemingly unbearable with patience and dignity.” This word really sums up that day and many other things I’ve experienced at school. Where else in the world would 900 teenagers sit on rigid metal chairs in a stiflingly hot gym for three hours, with no cold drinks or fans allowed, and not complain or misbehave once?

The opening ceremony continued with some short comedy plays by the Drama club that unfortunately I couldn’t understand. At around 10 a.m I gratefully excused myself from the sauna that the gym had become, darted out into the hot sheets of rain and headed to the ECC clubroom to meet the girls. They spent the next 40 minutes nervously reciting and re-reciting their lines, checking their pronunciation and intonation with me, and giving each other words of encouragment. Although I wasn’t too nervous at first, with time my nerves began to build and I was suddenly back in year 9 of secondary school (age 15), getting ready to go on stage to do a dance performance in Battle of the Bands, my school’s annual summer talent show. As a side note, I was Britney Spears and my friends were my backing dancers. Yes, really.

Before we knew it, it was time to head backstage. It was unbelievably hot; and the nerves had risen to an almost electric level. Several of the girls had gone quiet and pale, clearly petrified at the thought of speaking English in front of the 900 students, 100 staff members and at least 200 parents in the audience. I did the best I could to offer words of encouragement, including teaching them the famous Western pre-performance saying “break a leg” which, to be honest, I’m not sure was a help or not. When it was finally time to go on stage, the tension couldn’t have been any higher. We were ready to go! But, horror of horrors, there was a problem with the laptop that was being used to screen the presentation onto the big screen. I couldn’t believe it. Within five minutes, half the club were in anguished tears, wringing their hands, slumped on the floor sobbing. I felt awful for them. They had worked so hard, got so nervous and now technology was cruelly failing them. I tried to offer words of comfort and encouraged them to take deep breaths, but it did little good. Eventually, I had to go out on stage to offer a few words of explanation and apology to the waiting audience, and the schedule was hastily rearranged to give us time to sort out the technical hitch. By this time Kyoka, the incoming ECC captain, was in absolute pieces and almost beyond consolation. I was worried she wouldn’t actually be able to speak.

Mercifelly, the laptop decided to make friends with the projector and it was time for our performance. We split into two groups, one on each wing of the stage, and delivered the presentation without any more hitches. I was so proud of the girls. They followed all my advice- speaking loudly and clearly, looking up, smiling and most importantly, enjoying themselves. Each time one of them finished and returned back behind the curtain, the others all excitedly congratulated them with looks of pure joy on their faces.

Some of the words the girls had chosen were very moving, especially those from Mr Honda, an art teacher. Megumi wrote me a letter to explain the significance of his input, as she couldn’t put it into words (many Japanese people find writing English a lot easier than speaking it). Mr Honda asked for his friend Mr Isheda, a popular maths teacher who sadly passed away last year, to be celebrated in the presentation. Mr Honda and Mr Isheda had been best friends, and when Mr Isheda passed away suddenly at age 47, due to a motorbike accident, Mr Honda and the whole of Sendai High School were understandably distraught. Mr Honda had always promised Mr Isheda that he would buy a motorbike so that they could ride together, but didn’t get to fulfull his promise before his friend passed away. After Mr Isheda’s fatal accident, Mr Honda bought the red motorbike that his friend had recommended to him, and had a special sticker made for it: “Pray for A.I.” (his friend’s initials). Mr Isheda’s favourite quote had been (obviously in Japanese) “there you are. I feel relief.” We made sure that this saying, along with a picture of Mr Honda standing proudly beside his motorbike with its memorial sticker, was an integral part of the presentation.

My own contribution to the presentation was a quote from Audrey Hepburn, my favourite actress. I really like this quote and although it was a challenge to translate into Japanese, I think it was a good choice.

“For beautiful eyes, look for the good in others. For beautiful lips, speak only words of kindess. And for poise, walk with the knowledge that you are never alone.”

After the presentation, there was a sense of real elation and achievement. We did it! The girls were literally jumping for joy, and the look of sheer relief on their faces was palpable. I felt like a very proud big sister!

We did it! The members of ECC after our nerve-wracking performance.

After the performance, we all headed back to our little clubroom for a de-brief. It was the first time all 17 members had been in the clubroom at the same time, and it was a very tight fit. It struck me how much the club had changed in such a short time. The girls were all still high on nerves and adrenaline, and the buzz of finally delivering the presentation they’d worked so hard on. As is always the way with events like this, there had to be a series of speeches afterwards, even when the audience in question are just teenage girls. Each third year student made a very emotional speech of thanks to the rest of the club, and a plea for them to carry on their hard work and make sure the club continues to grow. As third years, this was the very last thing they would do as members of ECC, and as I watched them sob their way through their thank you/farewell speeches, I realised that this club wasn’t just a way for them to tick the ‘I am in a school club’ box. It was a family, a close-knit group of young people who’d spent many hours together and who had come to rely on each other for support and companionship. The end of their school club career was clearly a very poignant event for them. From now, it really is knuckle-down and study hard time.

After the thank you speeches, I had had just about had all the emotional trauma I could take for one day! It was finally time to relax and enjoy the more casual part of the School Festival: wandering through the many beautifully decorated homerooms, eating, talking and playing games. I spent three really enjoyable hours with Megumi, visiting every classroom, playing games, chatting with students and eating far more cakes, ice cream and doughnuts than should be allowed.

The transformation of the classrooms was astounding. For those of you not familiar with the anatomy of a Japanese High School classroom, here are two words to describe it: austere and spartan. There is no decoration, no colour, no distraction from study at all; just windows on both sides, a painfully old-fashioned blackboard and teacher’s podium at the front; and 30-40 single metal-legged desks and hard chairs set out in uniform rows. I have no fancy whiteboard, screen, or any audio-visual equipment to liven up my lessons at all. Just chalk, the blackboard and my own imagination!

In the classroom there are no clues at all to the personalities of the 40 odd students who spend seven to eight hours a day, every day sitting there listening to lectures on everything from algebra to the proper way to execute a bow. It’s how I imagine Borstal in the 1970s might have looked like. Imagine the contrast then, on School Festival day. The classrooms had been transformed into colourful, fun, attractive celebrations of the students that ‘live’ there. For indeed, as their ‘homeroom’ and the place they spend the majority of the school day, these rooms really are their homes, and their classmates are their family members. Photos of students as babies, amazing balloon sculptures, banners, hilarious home-made videos shot on the school grounds, blackboard murals, beautiful paintings and calligraphy, mini cafes, incredible mosaic murals; it was a riot of colour, fun and talent. Here are some of my favourite photos.

ECC chefs!

Boys enjoying one of the classroom ‘cafes’

Cross-dressing boys: an integral part of any Japanese school event

Classroom cafe fun

Made entirely of plastic bottle tops!

After a good three hours of relaxing and enjoying the students’ work, it was finally time to clean up and head home. Although my JTEs told me I didn’t need to help tidy up, I read between the lines and knew that it would be a good thing if I stayed and helped. So after sweeping some floors, shifting desks back and helping to squash cardboard boxes flat, it was finally time to head home for the longest shower in history and a much-needed party nap!

So that was the Sendai High School Festival. An exciting, nerve-wracking, funny, exhausting day with some very special memories made. I’ll certainly never forget my first Japanese School Festival!

And now onto Satsuma Chuo High School, my second school. It’s about half the size of Sendai High School, with only 500 students, and as different from it as it’s possible to be. I love the contrast between my two schools- variety really is the spice of life when it comes to the life of an ALT. Satsuma Chuo is a technical or vocational school, meaning that unlike Sendai High School, students are not so academically-focused. They will be going on to a specialist technical college, or straight into jobs after High School. Although there are general academic courses, many students are grouped into Welfare, Engineering and Agriculture courses. What this means is that their English level is generally much lower than that of their peers at Sendai High School. Although this can make lessons very challenging, I actually find that generally, Satsuma students have more energy and drive, and are definitely more lively. This is probably because they don’t have to study as hard or pass as many exams as Sendai students! They are always smiling and are absolutely thrilled to see me. The teachers too, although obviously very busy, seem to have more time to talk to me and I am given a lot more scope for creativity and fun games in these classes. Perhaps because of this, or because the majority of the English teachers are women, I have bonded really well with the teachers at this school. I always look forward to my visits to Satsuma Chuo High School, despite the 6:25 alarm call!

The school is in the small town of Miyanojo, about 40 minutes drive northeast from Sendai. This really is the Kagoshima ‘inaka’ (countryside). The drive to Satsuma Chuo, although long, is really beautiful and makes it (almost) worth having to get up more than an hour earlier than usual. I pass rugged green mountains wreathed in mist and clouds, the rushing Sendai River, lichen-covered gravestones carved with elaborate kanji, dreamily beautiful bamboo forests and glassy rice fields, currently saturated with the rains of ‘tsuyu’, the seemginly never-ending rainy season. I frequently see old men and women working the rice fields; wearing bamboo sugegasa, the iconic pointed hat worn by so many agricultural workers across Asia to protect them from the sun, wind and rain as they work the fields that nourish their neighbours. It really is like something out of a film and makes me feel as though time has stopped.

So, back to the main topic: the School Festival. Because the two schools are so different, I had already guessed that their School Festivals would be very different to each other. Just how different though was striking! I only attended the second day of the Satsuma Chuo festival, so maybe I missed the high-end cultural stuff, but something tells me not. Possibly because I wasn’t such a big part of this festival, the atmosphere was much more relaxed. I actually had the chance to return to my desk and relax during the day, which was really nice.

So things kicked off, like at Sendai High School, in the gym. The whole room was decorated with some of the students’ beautiful mural work; everything from a huge mosaic of the new Tokyo Sky Tree, to a big painting of Spongebob Squarepants, to ‘paintings’ made entirely from painted wooden toothpicks!

An amazing One Piece (famous Japanese anime) mural made of painted toothpicks pushed into polystyrene. It must have taken weeks to make!

I love him!

Like the Sendai High School opening ceremony, the gym was stiflingly hot and crowded with students. However, the entertainment on offer could not have been more different. The lights dimmed, a colourful bi-lingual ‘Make a Dream!’ banner was lowered and the school’s dance troupe took to the stage. I have one word to describe the next twenty minutes, and it is ‘sexy’! No refined Chopin piano or brass band here. No, day two of the Satsuma Chuo festival opened with the dirty, throbbing basslines of American hip-hop and some seriously suggestive dancing by the lean, muscular boys and girls of the Dance Club. I barely recognised the girls, out of their matronly knee-length checked shirts, flat black brogues, boxy school shirts and knee length socks. Their hair crimped and glittered, their eyes given that strange, alien-like appearance with the doll-eye contact lenses that are so popular here and their faces made up: they actually looked like the teenagers they are, instead of children.

After the dancing was for me, the stand-out event of the Satsuma Chuo festival and what made it so very different to its Sendai counterpart. I had been told by my English colleagues that there would be a talk on martial arts and that I didn’t have to attend because it would probably be boring (the Japanese do know how to tempt). However, I thought it would be good listening practice if nothing else so decided to stay in the gym after the dancing. And, it turns out to have been a good decision!

A large screen was lowered and for five minutes we were treated to a very energetic, impressive video following a man who appeared to be some kind of boxing/martial arts whizz. There were lots of moody shots of him glaring sullenly at the camera, and plenty of clips of him beating the living daylights out of his opponents, interpersed with short clips of him being interviewed. The sense of anticipation grew, I could feel the students getting more and more excited. Suddenly the film ended and from the back of the gym, the guy from the video strode in, topless and wearing only his boxing shorts. This was a most unexpected and very welcome surprise for me, and ensured that I paid very close attention for the next hour! Not to sound shallow, but muscular topless boxers are few and far between in Kagoshima-ken.

For the next hour, the guy delivered what was clearly a motivational speech to the students. I couldn’t understand everything, but there was a lot of “please do your best”, “perservere”, and the obligatory “fight!”. Eventually, he called two volunteers to the stage, who held a baseball bat upright for him. With one powerful kick and a roar of delight from the audience, he broke it in two! Very impressive. During the whole speech, when my eyes weren’t glued to his arms and chest (sorry, I am a red-blooded woman after all), I kept smiling to myself. This really couldn’t be more different from the refined elegance of the Sendai High School festival.

After the talk it was time to eat! We all headed to the innter courtyard of the school. All Japanese schools are built in a kind of square, with a big courtyard in the middle, sometimes with trees and benches. At Satsuma Chuo it’s only small, and I had never been into it before. For the School Festival it had been beautifully decorated with windmills, made from used plastic drinks bottles, painted and covered with streamers. For the next hour I wandered in and out of the courtyard, enjoying the huge array of foods prepared by the students and chatting with many teachers. Let me say this: School Festivals are bad for the waistline. With food hawkers as adorable as this, it’s impossible to refuse!

Later in the afternoon I returned to the gym to see the school rock band give a performance. I was blown away! There on the stage, rocking out, laughing and bantering confidently with the audience, were the four third-year girls I often have lunch with. They were wearing their school uniforms, but they couldn’t have looked more different. When I eat with them they are sweet but painfully shy. It was really something to see them transformed into a sassy, confident female rock band! It was also quite something to see the level of audience participation. At the Sendai School Festival, although there was plenty of cheering and clapping, everyone remained resolutely sitting down and behaving themselves. Here however, sutdents were standing on chairs, dancing, jumping up and down, taking photos with their mobiles (banned at school but everyone has them anyway), doing Mexican waves and waving flashing lights. Overall, there was a lot more energy to things. It was less polished, but more real.

After that I did the rounds of the beautifully-decorated classrooms, buying more snacks, playing games, chatting with many students and simply standing gazing down into the hustle and bustle of the courtyard below. We were treated to an impressive performance by the school’s calligraphy club which we watched from above. Unlike the beautiful but very formal calligraphy on display at Sendai High School, this was fun, rough and ready. A large canvas was laid out in the courtyard, and for ten minutes, the calligraphy club girls danced about on their bare feet, sloshing brightly coloured paint around and creating a vibrant piece which I’m told signified youth and energy. And that’s exacly what sums up the Japanese School Festival for me: the abundant, optimistic energy of youth. Both Festivals, while very different, were great experiences and ones that will be some of my best memories of my schools. I’m already looking forward to next year!

Samui desu ne! Atsui desu ne! The Crazy Climate of Kagoshima-ken.

Long time no write. Sorry about that.

And now for a weather-themed blog entry. It had to come eventually.

Since arriving in Japan almost ten months ago, I’ve discovered that I, as a Brit, share many characterstics with my adopted culture. The main one is a natural reservedness; and an acute awareness of how my actions, gestures, and even voice might affect or be perceived by those around me. I’ve had this conversation with many of the English teachers at my schools, and they agreed that the Biritsh ‘character’, however you want to describe it, is in many ways similar to the Japanese character. On several occasions this has been a source of great comfort. It’s nice to know that I can move 6000 miles away from my home country and still feel like I have a lot in common with the people around me.

Anyway, the point of this British/Japanese character comparison is this. Another big similarity I have noticed is that we both love to talk about the weather, and in particular we both love to complain about the weather. Too hot, too cold, too wet, too dry. The weather is the default topic of small talk conversations both back in the UK and here in Japan. Have nothing to say to someone? Have an awkward silence to fill? A passing remark on the weather is the perfect answer. And when you have the Japanese ability of a toddler, saying the simple phrases “atsui desu ne” (isn’t it hot) or samui desu ne” (isn’t it cold) can go a long way in making you feel better about your communication abilities.

So, now time for a weather comparison. I come from a windy island in the north Atlantic that is famed for rain and grey, cloudy weather. Did you know that 51% of British days are overcast? Well, I shall explain why (I always dreamed of being a weather woman). The UK straddles the geographic mid-latitudes between 50-60 North from the equator. It is also positioned on the western seaboard of Eurasia, the world’s largest land mass. These boundary conditions allow convergence between moist maritime air and dry continental air. The large temperature variation creates instability and this is a major factor that influences the famously unsettled weather the UK experiences. It is not uncommon to experience sunshine, rain and snow in one day, especially during the April showers season. One thing is certain; if you plan an event outisde, it WILL rain. The recent Diamond Jubilee Washout is a perfect example of this. But, aside from this, we have some of the most beautiful springs in the world, the occasional hot sunny week or two in summer, stunning crisp autumns and biting, cold, snowy winters.

The default climate is drizzle/rain and clouds and an average daily temperature of around 13 degrees Celcius. A major feature of the UK is that there are not usually great extremes in temperature or precipitation during the year. Yes we have odd heatwaves, cold snaps, floods and snowstorms; but generally our temperate climate shuffles along like a reliable old man; sometimes beligerent but usually mild-mannered and unassuming, minding his own business and not throwing too many unpleasant surprises our way.

So, I hope this background information goes some way to explaining why I, and many of my fellow British ALTs, struggle so much to cope with the extremes of the climate of Kagoshima-ken. Our prefecture is about as far south as you can go in Japan, and it has a humid subtropical climate. The emphasis being on the word humid. Weather here is marked by cool, relatively dry winters; warm, wet springs; hot, wet summers and mild, wet autumns.

Now I have been here almost a year, I have experienced almost the full cycle of weather that the Ken has to throw at me. When I arrived on August 1st, I can honestly say that I have never been so unbelievably hot in my entire life, even in Cuba. The mercury hovered at at least 30 degrees Celcius every day until the end of September, and I never realised before how much I could sweat. There was basically no point showering for the entire summer. You soon learn upon arriving in Kagoshima-ken to carry at least one sweat towel, a fan and a cold drink with you AT ALL TIMES during the summer. And, if you’re a pale English rose like me, a sun parasol too, to block out the sun’s cruel rays. I spent my first few months here almost fainting on a daily basis, especially when I began teaching, which always makes me hot even on a cold day. The heat was especially hard to cope with working in a formal Japanese High School, where flesh on display is a no-no. It was only really by the end of November that I started to feel comfortable again, and actually began to wear sleeves once more.There was a brief period in November to December when at last I wasn’t sweating buckets and wanting to lie in a cold swimming pool, so I guess that was the autumn.

After the scorching, searing heat of the summer and the welcome relief of the all-too-brief autumn, the winter arrives in deepest South Japan. Now, don’t get me wrong, I know that compared to the likes of Hokkaido and some of Honshu’s northern prefectures, we Kagoshimans have a very mild and even warm winter. However, I would like to refute the myth that Kagoshima-ken does not have a winter. I can safely say that it does. From December to February, the cold descends on the south. And it is COLD. Maybe not the sub-zero temperatures of north Japan, but trust me, it is cold, and yes, it does snow.

When you live in the subtropics, the buildings are built to shield you from the summer heat. The walls are thin and uninsulated, and the Japanese style home, with its focus on wood, paper and tatami mats is light and airy, allowing for a cooler home in the stifling summer. Unfortunately, this means that come winter, there is simply no escape from the cold. Buildings here are neither insulated nor centrally heated, so in order to survive the cold you have to accept the fact that your heating bills are going to go through the roof. I took to sealing my sliding doors and heating just one room with my air conditioner, only leaving the warmness when I absolutely had to. My other defences against the biting cold were wearing more clothes than I thought possible (it took me a full ten minutes to dress in the morning, and another ten to undress in the evening), sticking self-heating pads all over my body and filling up on hot food and drink whenever I could. I could hardly believe, upon seeing my breath in my own kitchen and finding my dishes frozen to the draining board one morning, that a mere four months earlier I had been baking alive every single day.

However, I love the winter. I am a winter girl. Aside from an irritating circulatory condition called Raynaud’s Syndrome which leaves me with numb, white, purple, throbbing fingers and toes during the winter, I love everything about winter. I love the hot, comforting food; the cosy clothes, snuggling up to keep warm. I love snow and when the air is so cold it stings your lungs. I am one of those rare people who actually feels sad when they have to shed their winter layers and allow the spring sunlight to penetrate them; and I actually mourn the the day when I have to put away my cosy winter boots, coats and scarves for another year.If I had to choose between being too hot or too cold, I would always choose too cold.

February was chilly, but not unbearably so; and by April and the arrival of the beautifulsakura (cherry blossoms), it was mild enough to go outside without a coat. In my opinion, summer arrived in Kagoshima in May. At 25 degrees Celcius, it was already like a hot midsummer day in England, where the mercury rarely rises about 25 degrees C, and when it does it initaites ‘HEATWAVE!’ headlines. However, when you add humidity into the mix, a weather condition never experienced in the UK, it feels at least 10 degrees hotter. Although everyone around me was still wearing long sleeves, coats and jackets and happily sitting in the staffroom with all the windows shut; I was sweltering and already in short sleeves and cropped trousers by early May. “Amy, aren’t you cold?!” students and teachers would ask incredulously as I mopped my brow and tried to discretely drink cold water during class to stop myself from fainting.
As soon as the sakura were gone, talk turned to the most dreaded weather event of the Kagoshima year: the rainy season of June-July. From early on, I was conditioned into dreading the coming of the rain by teachers and students who told me that it was “a simply dreadful time of year”; that everyone gets depressed; everything is covered in mould and every day is dark, wet and grey. Rain always affects my mood and so I haven’t been looking forward to it one bit. However, I stocked up on moisture-grabbing boxes (ingenius inventions that you put in your cupboards to suck all the water from the air and protect your clothes from mould), asked my Japanese friends how to work the de-humidifying setting on my air conditioner; and tried to tell myself that the dreaded rain is the reason our prefecture is so green, lush and beautiful.
So far, rainy season isn’t fun, but it isn’t the soul-destroying dreadfulness I was expecting either. It’s June 11th today and although it’s rained most days since the start of the month, we’ve had a few dry days too. However, today was textbook depressing rainy season. It has been dark as night, pouring all afternoon and the humidity is unbelievable. I made the unwise decision to cycle to and from school today- and the even unwiser decision to wear my new skirt too (note to self: billowing skirt and pouring rain do not mix). It’s so humid and cloudy that you can’t even see the green mountains that surround Sendai. The town has turned into an island in a sea of clouds. Everything is wreathed in moisture; and it’s not unlike being in a giant steam room.
Although it currently feels like it will never stop raining, I know that in just a month or so’s time, the scorching sunshine will burn the clouds away and it’ll be time for the blistering Kagoshima summer once more. I do love this prefecture and I accept that the crazy climate is part of it. However, I think it will take me longer than just one year to adapt to the extremes. However much I might have complained about the dull, cloudy, cool weather of home, there is a lot to be said for a comfortable temperate climate!

Back to the West, or rather the South: my trip to New Zealand

I’m finally sitting down to write this, over a month after I got back to Japan from my brief but incredible trip to New Zealand’s North Island. The new school year started in April and things have been hectic with new students, teachers and self introduction lessons. Then it was Golden Week, which is several public holidays in a row. I had another trip away to enjoy the cosmopolitan delights of the Kansai region, along with the beautiful scenery of Koyasan (see Facebook photo album). But no more excuses! I want to get this down to commit it all to memory.

I’ve been really lucky since arriving in Japan, because in nine short months I’ve already done a lot of travelling within the country. However, this was my first trip out of the country and back to the ‘west’ since arriving in Japan, and my first ‘holiday’ in a very long time. Add this to the fact that New Zealand has been top of my places to visit for many years; and you can understand why I was unbelievably excited and had been counting down the months, days, weeks and hours since I booked the flights in February.

Despite taking a journal and pen away with me and swearing to myself that I’d keep a diary, or at least jot down the places we visited each day, as usual I was too lazy and couldn’t force myself to do it. I have the memory of a goldfish, so unfortunately I can’t remember the exact order of events/locations or all the names of the many little towns we stopped in, but I hope what follows is a semi-logical explanation of the things I got up to on this wonderful trip!

I flew from Fukuoka, Kyushu’s biggest city, to Auckland via Hong Kong. I won’t lie, I was nervous about travelling alone! I flew to Havana alone when I was 22 and survived, but for some reason flying alone from a foreign country to another foreign country (Hong Kong, for a 2 hour layover) made me a little nervous. However, the entire journey to and from New Zealand went with almost no glitches and I now have a new-found confidence in my solo travelling abilities.

While the plane was making its final descent into Auckland after my LONG journey, I was struck by how much like home the scenery was. Grey clouds, drizzle, rolling green hills, fields, sheep and cows: it was just like England! It was the first of many times on the trip that I was reminded of home, even though I couldn’t have been any further away from it.

Just like home.

After a happy reunion at the airport and a night in a gorgeous hotel in Auckland to recharge our batteries, Andrus and I picked up our campervan, which was to be our home for the next 9 days. I’d never been in a campervan before, so I was pretty excited about it. It’s like camping, only you get solid walls, a bed and a roof- what’s not to love?! It was small, and smaller still when I put my suitcase inside (note to self- buy a big travelling backpack). However, it was cosy and self-sufficient with everything from a fridge to a gas hob, nicer than the one I have at home in Japan! The cupboards were stocked with kitchenware; there was a small sink and mini ‘sofas’ along both sides of the back of the van which could be transformed into a surprisingly comfortable bed. I turned into something of a gypsy housewife (my obsession with Channel 4’s trashy but addictive Big Fat Gypsy Weddings continues), cleaning out daily and generally being very van-proud.

And so began our journey around the North Island, stopping wherever we wanted, listening to great music, enjoying beautiful scenery and generally being free spirits. Sometimes we paid to stay at campsites and other times we just found a spot by the road or by the sea that we liked, and bedded down for the night. It was a really nice sense of freedom and something I definitely want to do again.

The weather, after the first night and morning of torrential rain, was perfect and the kind of weather I could live in forever. Bright sunshine, sapphire-blue sky and either warm or pleasantly hot. It was pretty strange to see trees beginning to turn golden in March, when I had left behind cherry trees that were just beginning to bloom with the first of the famous Japanese spring sakura. It was much hotter than I had anticipated in fact, with the result that most of the clothes I’d bought were too warm and I had to buy an entire capsule summer wardrobe of a bikini, hat, flipflops, shorts and a dress. Fail.

Our first night was spent cooking and sleeping by the sea- literally, feet from it. I’ve never fallen asleep or woken up listening to waves and it was a very lovely experience. Right near our van was this awesome tree that looked like it had witches’ broomsticks hanging from it. I wish I knew its name!

Amazing witch broomstick tree

The next day, after stocking up on summer clothes and taking a deep breath, I donned a bikini for the first time in a VERY long time, exposed my post-winter porcelain-white skin to the world and experienced my first hot sand beach. New Zealand, like Japan, is teeming with geothermal activity and that means plenty of natural hot springs, bubbling gloopy mud pools and hot sand beaches. There is one about three hours drive from my town in Japan, but I haven’t got round to going yet. It’s quite something to walk across a beach and get your feet burned!

One of the beauties of travelling in a campervan is that you can pull over any time you like to admire the scenery, or take a little walk. On a brief wander into a really beautiful forest, I took one of my favourite shots of the whole trip; this tree-fern.

On day six, we had a lot of geothermal fun. I’ve been lucky enough to experience possibly the most impressive area of geothermal activity in the world; Yellowstone National Park, so I already knew to expect an eggy, sulphurous stench and lots of gloopy, steaming, bubbling mud pools. But nothing quite prepared me for the constant fug of Rotorua, a city on the southern shores of the lake of the same name, in the Bay of Plenty region in the north of the North Island. It was seriously whiffy and I’m not sure how the occupants put up with the constant smell. But it also means one important thing: lots of awesome photos of glorious mud!

Steamy. We could feel the heat rising from the mud and despite the stench of eggy sulphur, it was strangely pleasant.

I waited with my finger poised above the button to get these muddy action shots, so I’m very pleased with them.

Squelch

One of my favourite photos of The Stink, and of the whole trip!

Love this one too. Mud glorious mud.

Muddy boobies

Haha. I actually love this photo. Wonder why?!

After watching the mud boil, trump and squelch for a while I really wanted to get in. Despite the smell, it looked so warm and inviting. Thankfully we were right near a wonderful hot pool where you could jump in for a dip. After overcoming my fear of walking barefoot, especially in natural bodies of water, we submerged ourselves in the amazingly hot water and spent a wonderful hour or so sitting basking like lizards in the hot water, completely at ease. Bizarrely my silver rings changed colour to gold- something I’d been warned about in Japan but had completely forgotten. It’s something to do with the chemicals in the water. I was pleased to find however that they slowly returned back to silver!

Andrus takes a very hot dip

Drastic change of subject now: the joys of being back in the west. After eight months of living in a culture that as is different to my own as is humanly possible, it was wonderful to be back in the ‘west’. Don’t get me wrong: I adore Japan and I love living here most of the time. I love learning how to behave, speak, eat, work, and even sleep in new ways; challenges and new things excite me and keep me on my toes. Immersing myself in Japanese culture has been a wonderful, fulfilling experience, but I won’t lie. There have been many times when I have longed for familiarity: for food I recognise, to be able to function without asking for help, for my favourite toiletry brands, for the ability to have a chat with a sales assistant or someone at a bus stop beyond the basic “isn’t it hot/cold, what are you doing at the weekend” that my Japanese skills stretch to. It’s these little things that I had learned to do without, that I realised just how much I missed in New Zealand. They really are important to me; and it was wonderful to have them all back again for nine short days. Another truly wonderful thing (call me shallow) was having my shockingly outgrown blonde highlights done for the first time in nine months. As Stephen Patrick Morrissey, frontman of the legendary Smiths once said: “I do maintain that if your hair is wrong, your entire life is wrong.” Now that is going a bit far, but old Misery Guts really does have a point.

Day seven was probably my favourite day of the trip, as we finally got in a really great hike and I got to dust off the hiking boots that I lugged all the way from England, to Japan to New Zealand. I do love a good hike, and I was in good company as Andrus is the King of Hiking and had just spent the previous six weeks hiking one hundred miles around the South Island.

Now many people talk about the stunning natural beauty of New Zealand, and they’ve probably spent a lot more time there than I have. I can’t claim to have seen much of the country, but the little snippets I saw in my all-too-brief ten days on the North Island have only further reassured me that this surely is one of the most beautiful places on the planet, and certainly one of the most stunning places I’ve ever seen. Day seven was solid proof of this.

We decided to tackle the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, a hefty hike of just under 20km which would take us up to the beautiful, almost perfectly conical slopes of Mount Ngauruhoe (I have no idea how to pronounce it unfortunately), an active stratovolcano about 25km south of Lake Taupo, where we’d arrived the evening before. We’d parked the van at an amazing hostel called the Urban Retreat- highly recommended if you’re ever passing through Taupo.

One of the most exciting things about Mount Ngauruhoe, despite the fact that it’s a sacred Maori site and has many beautiful, interesting geological features (once a Geographer, always a Geographer); is that in the early 2000s, it was used as a stand-in for Mount Doom in the Lord of the Rings trilogy! Cue constant orc/hobbit/Gollum impressions and film quotes all day long (I must have driven Andrus mad with “Get off the road! Get off the road!”).

Mount Ngauruhoe…..

……….MOUNT DOOM

I really was very excited to journey into Mordor. Although the only orc I saw had a gravelly Oregonian accent and was wearing a checked shirt and a baseball cap (snigger); it really was an eerie experience imagining we were deep in Tolkien’s barren, desolate wasteland, being hunted down by terrifying Ringwraiths and orcs, with the burden of the One Ring becoming ever heavier as we neared its fiery birthplace.

Ok, LOTR geeking-out complete! Due to my embarrassing inability to get out of bed before 10a.m, even on a ‘camping’ holiday, we didn’t start the hike until 13:30, when we really should have started at around 9 a.m. This wasn’t a huge deal, but it did mean that by the time we got near the summit of the volcano, the clouds had really come down and there was no point going all the way to the top as the view would have been non-existent. I do regret that! Another reason to go back. Anyway, as you’ll see, not climbing to the summit and carrying on across the crater was definitely the right decision.

Andrus the hiking king, ready to tackle the Tongariro Alpine Crossing

And so the road to Mordor began. The first two thirds of the walk were across mostly flat land, dotted with tussocks of tough grass and menacing outcrops of black igneous rock, some of them swirled with dusky red, like ghosts of the flames that formed them.

Eerie Mordor scenery

As the climb steepened, so the scenery got ever more impressive. Here are some of my favourite photos from the climb. Apologies for the bad format- WordPress has to be the most user-unfriendly blog platform of them all. It’s taken me an age to upload these one by one!

Beautiful waterfall

Andrus leading the way through Mordor

The summit, shrouded in cloud

I loved this rock formation!

Getting to the top of the first crater. The fires of Mount Doom are ever nearer.

Reassuring warning sign about the dangers of pyroclastic flows. Basically if it happens, you’re dead.

Walking through the crater. It was amazingly big and very flat, especially after the steep climb up. I’ve never been to Mars but I imagine this is what it looks like! The ground was warm and steam was rising from it; a stark reminder of the immense heat and energy boiling right beneath our feet. When the clouds started to come down too, it really was very eerie. It didn’t take much imagination to imagine orcs staggering out of the murk to chop us to bits!

More Martian scenery in the crater

One of my favourite pictures. This was on a ridge at the top of one crater, looking into another. I love the contrast in colours between the golden rocks and the blue sky.

This is possibly my favourite photo of the whole trip. The light and shadows changed constantly in the crater and it was wonderful sitting watching it for a while. It was mesmerising: a real moment of clarity.

Another one of my favourite pictures. I’m really pleased with this one.

When we finally got near the summit of the volcano, we were rewarded for our climb with yet more unbelievable scenery. The Red Crater was easily one of the most stunning places I have ever seen. The rock formations were incredible; and brought to mind a certain area of the female anatomy (!). The reds and browns of the rocks changed constantly as the clouds scudded overhead, and as the clouds started to come down, it was breathtaking.

This is my favourite photo of Red Crater

Life on the edge….

Amazingly, the stunning scenery didn’t end there. Just when I thought I’d seen all the natural wonders I could possibly fit into in one day, I glimpsed the exquisite turquoise of the Emerald Crater Lakes, some way off. Sadly we didn’t have the time or energy to make it right over to them, so these photos are only zoomed in ones, but I hope they capture the stunning colour of the water, which just happens to be my favourite colour.

Simply stunning

New Zealand is taking the mickey really. It’s hogging most of the world’s breathtaking scenery and natural wonders for itself and it really doesn’t give a damn!

After that, the clouds really started to come down so we began our descent from Mount Doom,  through Mordor and back to the safety of our trusty campervan. As we were driving back down to Taupo, the sunset was really beautiful. I couldn’t capture it very well on film, but I tried! It was the perfect end to the day.

And so, our journey around the North Island was sadly coming to an end. With heavy hearts we started the journey back to Auckland, spending our last night in the van at a roadside, in true gypsy fashion. After reluctantly returning it to the hire place (it had really become home), we checked into a hostel in Auckland for our last night. It was in Parnell, a very upmarket area of the town that I could quite happily live one day (if I ever win the lottery). We had one last great meal at a pizza place, and that was it- the adventure was sadly over.

I started my very long journey back to Japan feeling pretty low, as I always do after goodbyes and when a wonderful holiday is over. However, it was a case of lion heart, onwards and upwards.

I had an overnight stop in Hong Kong on the way back to Japan, which I was quite excited about, especially as my friends Sarah and Mary Margaret were going to be there at the same time as me.

The late night bus journey from the airport into central Hong Kong was really something. The city lights were incredible- I’ve never seen so many! And the sheer number of high-rise buildings was also astounding. I enjoyed zoning out after my long flight and just watching the city open up before me in all its glittering glory. I checked into a ’boutique’ hotel (aka one up from a budget hotel) at about 23:30, utterly exhausted and very stinky after the 12 hour flight. I dumped my bags and headed straight out into the city to try to meet my friends, who were going to be at a certain branch of M&S at 23:30. A very helpful American guy paid for my subway ticket as I only had a 100 dollar note and the ticket machine wouldn’t accept it. Thank you whoever you are! I was very proud to find the M&S with no trouble, but by then it was midnight and Sarah and Mary Margaret had sadly already left.

I found myself in the middle of Hong Kong’s buzzing nightlife district, on what seemed to be the busiest Saturday night ever, so I decided to buy a beer (50 dollars- WHAT?!) and wander round, soaking up the atmosphere. It was really bizarre (in a good way) being the only sober person, the only person in jeans, a t-shirt and Converse, and clearly the only girl wearing no make-up and having not showered for an entire day, haha. It was quite something hearing thumping dance music coming out of the coutnless bars and clubs, seeing hundreds of people standing on the streets, chatting and drinking, and seeing girls of all nationalities dressed to the nines, in teetering heels and miniscule dresses. I haven’t seen that in a long time- there’s not much of a clubbing scene in Sendai! It was like Nottingham on a Saturday night, but far classier and far less threatening. The atmosphere was exciting and pumped with energy, but very chilled-out and safe.

After an hour I was so exhausted that I decided to head back to the hotel, and it’s a good thing I did because the subway I got on turned out to be the last one. I had a much-needed shower and collapsed into bed to sleep off some of the travel exhaustion. The following morning I started the final leg of my journey back to Fukuoka, then finally home to Sendai where my wonderful friend Miyuki was waiting to pick me up and bring me home.

And so here ends my account of a truly wonderful holiday, in many more ways than one. It sounds cliqued but I made some very special memories that I will never forget.

I hope I’ve not droned on TOO much. Thank you for reading!

Until next time…….

The Invisible Woman

It’s been a funny old week. I’ve been on a post-holiday comedown and have been missing a lot of people, but that’s only been part of it. School has been STRANGE and I’ve not known what’s been going on most of the time. I will write all about my wonderful New Zealand adventures in a seperate blog, but for now please indulge me in reflecting on what has been a strange and challenging week!

Over the past few weeks I’ve been listening to an audiobook of H.G Wells’ The Invisible Man. The protagonist is called Griffin, a scientist who has devoted himself to research into optics and invents a way to change a body’s refractive index to that of air, so that it absorbs and reflects no light and thus becomes invisible. The more I’ve heard, the more I can relate to Griffin’s plight. No, not because of my groundbreaking scientific research (GCSE Science was 11 years ago, after all) or the reign of terror I have unleashed on my townfolk. All this week at school, I have felt totally invisible. Add this to my inability to comprehend 90% of the conversations and events going on around me, and it really is being like an alien. This definitely has its benefits. I can be in my own little world and tune everybody out; which can be curiously relaxing. When everyone else vanishes suddenly to a meeting, I’m free to sit at my desk and carry on amusing myself. However, it can also be extremely isolating and frustrating at times, because it means I’m often forgotten and no one remembers to tell me about important events that I need to prepare for.

This week has been a classic example of this. April is the start of the new school year in Japan, with March being the month that we say farewell to graduating third year students and to teachers moving on to new jobs and schools. The public sector in Japan works on the basis of rotation, so that every few years people change jobs, homes and cities and move to a different school. When you consider what a large prefecture Kagoshima is, and that it contains many isolated islands hundreds of miles off the coast, you can see what a big deal this is to many teachers. It’s not uncommon for families to be split up when a teacher has to move to an island for work. Sad stuff.

On Monday, I arrived back at school after two weeks away to find a lot of change. It was pretty unnerving. I’m quite cat-like in that I get used to things just how they are, then when they change it unsettles me. It was very strange to see M Sensei’s desk ominously empty. She was a very good friend- the only other young woman in the English department and she was a great help when I first moved to Japan, helping me with everything from shopping for a futon, to clearing out my cupboards of junk, to setting me up with a mobile phone. We spent many lunchtimes together talking and laughing and I miss her already. The other major changes were a new male teacher to replace her, and a complete switch round of the seating plan so that I have new neighbours. They happen to be two of the friendliest, funniest and most English-speaking teachers in the department so I’m happy about that, because it means I get to teach with them in the new school year. That’s something to look forward to!

So after quite an exciting first day back on Monday, I had three very long days of sitting at my desk all day, not being spoken to much and wondering what was going on every time the teachers all inexplicably vanished at the same time. I managed to amuse myself on Tuesday and some of Wednesday with drawing and colouring in a fun poster to entice new English Club members. I also managed a bit of Japanese study, although not as much as I’d have liked. It’s hard to concentrate on learning a complex language when your mind is elsewhere. As many of you will know, boredom does very bad things to me! Office days can be great- they’re a chance to relax a bit, recuperate and plan for future lessons. But when you have five in a row it can get pretty depressing!

Yesterday things got a little more, ahem, interesting. For only the second time in eight months, I left the school grounds at lunchtime and took the full hour lunch break that I’m entitled to. Upon cycling back up the school drive, windswept and out of breath, I was horrified to see the entire staff of the school standing on benches in formal attire, clearly having the annual staff photograph taken. I froze in horror. I was windswept, sweaty and wearing semi-casual clothes, including a mismatched suit jacket. Had any of my colleagues told me that today was photo day, during the three days that I’d been sitting next to them? No, of course not. I had to jump off my bike in front of everyone and race over, throwing on my suit jacket (which I thankfully had with me) and hope that my windswept hair wasn’t too atrocious. I jumped on the end of a line and tried to look calm and collected. I wonder if I’ll show up on the photo…..?

After the initial anger and embarrassment at being made to look like a rude, disorganised, late gaijin fool in front of every single teacher in the school, I saw the funny side. Unfortunate events like these are definitely lessons in disguise. It’s a curious fact of the Japanese English office that us ALTs are very rarely informed or pre-warned about last-minute inexplicable schedule changes, ceremonies where we need to wear formal attire, or any other out of the ordinary events. Despite working here for eight months and speaking English to my colleagues 90% of the time, they curiously seem to think that I can read the indecipherable kanji on the schedule board, and understand their rapid, Kagoshima-dialect conversations. Either that or they think I’m telepathic and can read their minds. Or, maybe I really am invisible. I barely speak a word all day so they can’t really be blamed for forgetting I’m here half the time. Anyway, the fact is that after eight months, I’m finally starting to learn that I must ask every day if anything unusual is happening, because I will never be told in advance!

This morning was another classic ‘what the hell is happening, I should have asked someone about the schedule yesterday’ debacle. I arrived at school and was surprised to see it teeming with students. It’s officially been spring break for the past fortnight, but students still come to school to do club activities and tests. Surely, I thought, it’s not the first day of the new school term, i.e. opening ceremony/formal attire day. I was wearing yet another slightly scruffy outfit. I’d asked my supervisor (who is not very forthcoming, to put it mildly) when the first day of the new year was and he said Tuesday- i.e. next week, which was clearly a miscommunication. It was today, of course. Apparently my mismatched/slightly scruffy clothes were ok, thankfully; and it’s Monday that I really need to wear formal attire, for the welcome ceremony for new students. Phew.

So, I think it’s understandable that after being forgotten and feeling invisible all week, I’m pretty fed up. However, I have learned the hard way that I really do have to be proactive about asking what’s happening, because I will never be told!

It’s not all been bad though. I went to a welcome party for the new English teacher on Wednesday evening, and it was really fun. Sometimes enkais (drinking parties) can be a bit tedious- sitting in seiza for three hours, unable to understand what anyone is saying (curse my rubbish Japanese skills). But this one was really fun. The food was beautiful, the alcohol was flowing (a little too freely), everyone was smiling and I had some really good conversations with some of my colleagues. Add the fact that I successfully conquered my squeamishness and ate a giant sea creature from a giant shell and it was a really fun night!

Another great thing about this week, and something that made me feel much better returning to Japan after my holiday, is that it is sakura (cherry blossom) season in Japan. I’m not exaggerating when I say that I’ve waited years to experience this most Japanese of customs! Hanami (花見 “flower viewing”) is the traditional custom of enjoying the beauty of flowers, especially cherry blossoms (“sakura”). From the end of March to early May, sakura bloom all over Japan (except, it seems, on poor Sarah’s far southern island of Tokunoshima!). The blossom forecast (桜前線, sakurazensen, literally cherry blossom front) is announced each year by the weather bureau, and is watched carefully by those planning hanami as the blossoms only last a week or two. Hanami consists of having an outdoor party beneath the sakura during daytime or at night. Hanami at night is called yozakura (夜桜, literally night sakura). In many places beautiful paper lanterns are hung for yozakura.

Last night I went to a yozakura close to the town’s shrine with members of my Eikawa (adult English evening class). I’d already been to my first hanami here on Sunday afternoon, which was a lovely thing to do on my first day back in Japan. It is so beautiful- there is a very long avenue at the entrance of the shrine which is completely lined with cherry trees. It was pretty in the day, but it’s magical at night. We enjoyed some beers and cooked meat (including pig’s foot and chicken cartilage, nice!) and vegetables over a charcoal grill (called yaki niku). It’s hard to describe the beauty of night time sakura softly lit by pink paper lanterns, and the festive atmosphere created by many people sitting beneath them, eating, drinking and enjoying themselves. It was exactly what I needed after a tough week; a reminder that although life here can be very frustrating and isolating at times, traditional Japanese customs like this really are wonderful.

How Two Minutes Can Make Your Day

Yesterday, I had such a wonderful brief encounter with a student that I had to share it (mind out of the gutter please James Baird!).

Throughout January and February at Sendai High School, I didn’t have my regular first year oral communication classes. Instead, I was asked to help the final year students prepare for the incredibly difficult university entrance examinations that they have to take if they want a chance of attending Japan’s top universities.

I was looking forward to working with the third years. At Sendai High School I usually only work with first year students, compared to Satsuma Chuo High School where I work with first, second and third year students. I suspect that the reason for this, rather depressingly, is that Sendai High School is an academic school, and after the first year, the focus turns to passing the university entrance exams. Amazingly and to my horror when I found out, there is no speaking element to the English section of the university entrance exams; only reading, writing and listening. Therefore, there isn’t ‘technically’ a need for students to be able to communicate orally in English after the first year of high school. This fact infuriates me and many other High School ALTs. Surely speaking is the most important part of learning a language, and it shouldn’t be abandoned just because it isn’t necessary for an exam?! But I digress. Here is not the place to get into a rant about some of the inadequacies of the Japanese foreign language education system.

So throughout the year so far at my main school, I have worked exclusively with one teacher, and with only a handful of small classes of very smart students, practicing writing compositions and reading. The material covered was mostly either horribly complicated, as boring as exposed brick or both, but I did my best to liven up the lessons and engage the students. Over the course of eight or nine weeks I really got to know the teacher I worked with, and looked forward to going to his office every day. He and his colleagues were always incredibly hospitable, plying me with coffee and sweet treats every time I visited. I’ll never forget some of the laughs we shared together…. often at my own silliness! The teacher and I would also talk for a long time about the complex differences between Japanese and English. It was fascinating and I learned so much about my own language, as well as Japanese.

Similarly, I slowly got to know some of the students. However, it was a long process. Although very smart and capable of complicated reasoning and comprehension in English writing, many of them were painfully shy, scarily serious and generally not at all what you’d expect young men to be like. However, after the first couple of lessons, I noticed that their faces would light up when I walked into the room, and then a couple of days later, I noticed that smiles had begun to lift the corners of their mouths. Upon remarking to the teacher that it was nice to see such usually serious boys smiling, he replied “oh, they only smile when you’re here.” That was really nice to hear.

I will never forget two boys in particular. My colleague and I nicknamed them ‘Smiley Boy’ and ‘Serious Boy’. Smiley Boy, as his name suggests, was never without an adorable, twinkly-eyed smile, although as he wore a cotton facemask for most of the two months, I never actually saw his mouth. His constant cheerfulness, even when he must have been exhausted from his gruelling exam preparation regime, was really inspiring. He reminded me that a smile really doesn’t take much effort, and can make you and everyone around you feel so much better, even when there’s nothing much to smile about.

However, it is Serious Boy that is the focus of this blog. Serious Boy is a slight, pale, very young-looking, painfully shy young man with razor-sharp cheekbones. He is genuinely the cleverest young person I have ever met. Although pretty much mute in class, every day my colleague would give me his notebook, in which he had written three, four, sometimes five English compositions for me to mark. Let me just explain the gravity of this. Part of the university entrance exam is a very complicated passage in Japanese, which the students must translate into English. And we’re not talking simple English. The model answers, which I had to use to mark his work, were of the most esoteric, obscure, impenetrable language you can imagine. Even I, as a native speaker and straight A student of English Language and Literature, struggled to comprehend them sometimes. He must have put hours of work into these compositions, on top of his regular classes. His commitment and dedication amazed me. I would feel really bad putting red (or green, sometimes I feel red is too harsh) ink all over his work, but I would try to explain to him that he hadn’t made serious mistakes, just that the language was very complex and that it was difficult even for me to understand. The most he ever said to me during these feedback sessions was “thank you” and he rarely looked me in the eye. He was too shy.

I got really attached to these two boys and was very sad to see them graduate last week. I made sure on my final lesson with their class that I thanked each student individually for their hard work and told them that I thought they’d do really well, but I was disappointed that I didn’t get to say goodbye to them on graduation day. However, yesterday, as I was leaving school on my bicycle, who should I see getting onto his bicycle to leave too but Serious Boy. Only this time, he wasn’t so serious. For the first time, he wasn’t wearing his glasses which gave him such a serious, studious look. And for the first time, he was unable to hide a shy, but very big smile when he saw me. It was adorable. I was absolutely thrilled to see him and screeched to a halt, pulling my headphones out to talk to him. The conversation we had lasted only two minutes, but it made my day and possibly my week, and will stand out as one of my Japan ‘moments’. I told him I was really happy to see him and he said “me too.” After that, he spoke more to me in two minutes than he had in two whole months. He told me that he was going to take the Nagoya (big city in central Japan) university entrance exam this Thursday, and that he enjoyed the lessons with me. He thanked me profusely for my help. I thanked him for all his hard work, wished him luck in the future and told him that he will go far. He was so obviously thrilled to see and speak with me that he couldn’t stop smiling. Serious Boy had become Smiley Boy. Just this, and the few words he said made me so happy I couldn’t stop grinning all the way home.

Now I’m sorry to sound cliqued or gushing, but please indulge me. I’m quite sure that this incredibly smart student would have gone far without my help. But I really do feel like I made a difference to him and his future. It’s moments like this that really do make all of this worthwhile; and remind me why I gave up so much to come here in the first place.

Fabulous February

I can’t quite believe that March is here already. Wasn’t Christmas only last week? My guitar teacher recently taught me the phrase ‘kou in ya no gotoshi’, which roughly translates to ‘time goes quickly like an arrow’. It really does.

On March 1st I experienced my first Japanese graduation ceremony, where we said farewell to the third years as they leave high school and go off to university. It was a two hour ceremony- that is a long time to sit in a cold gym on a metal chair; and most of it was utterly incomprehensible to me, but it was a really interesting experience. There was a lot of heart-rending music played by the school’s brass band, some very moving speeches by the head boy and girl (the latter actually breaking into tears) and more bowing than I’ve ever seen, and that’s saying something. As I watched the ceremony, It struck me that it was six months to the day since I stood on that same stage, in front of  900 students and 100 staff (not all the parents though, thankfully) and made my faltering, nerve-wracking self introduction speech, partly in Japanese, on the first of September. Amazing really, how much has happened to me since then.

Now that we’re into the third month of the year, it seems like a good time to reflect on February, which was one of the most exciting and eventful months of my time in Japan so far, and arguably of my adult life. I managed to pack an unbelievable amount into just 29 short days and I’ve had so many wonderful experiences that I really want to get them down, to commit them to memory so that I’ll never forget them. Here follows an account of Fabulous February 2012.

Hello Nagasaki

On the first weekend in February, I went to Nagasaki for a girly weekend with five other ALTs. For many people, the word Nagasaki, like Hiroshima, conjures up only one thing: the dreadful atomic bomb of 1945. While I agree that this heinous event should never be forgotten, Nagasaki has so much more to offer than the ghosts of that terrible day. Although the city does have a tragic past, modern-day Nagasaki is a beautiful, bustling, cosmopolitan city surrounded by mountains and brimming with character. For Japan, it’s something of a rarity because historically it has actually had a lot of outside cultural influences, especially Dutch and Chinese. We were lucky enough to visit during the city’s annual Lantern Festival, so it was even busier and prettier than usual.

Hello Nagasaki

After a very long journey from Sendai (which should have taken only 3 hours but due to a train mistake, ended up taking nearly 6!), we all met in Nagasaki. Half of the group stayed at the very nice Casa Noda hostel. The Japanese owner lived in Brazil for many years and so had a semi South-American accent when he spoke (perfect) English- very interesting for a Japanese person! He also had a wonderful hammock from South America (I forget which country) in the reception area, and many books on Latin America. I talked with him for a long time over breakfast on the first morning; he was fascinating and renewed my lifelong ambition to see South America. After a late dinner and a few drinks (warm Nihonshu, or sake as westerners call it, was the perfect antidote to the cold), we hit the hay, or rather, the bunkbeds.

On our first day, those staying in Casa Noda decided to hit the big stuff first; namely the Atomic Bomb Museum, Peace Park and hypocentre memorial. The Atomic Bomb Museum, while not exactly a happy place, was top of my list of things to see in Nagasaki. I think everyone who comes to Japan for any length of time should visit either Nagasaki or Hiroshima. The bombs are horrible scars on the history of Japan, and painfully recent, with Nagasaki receiving its deadly blow at 11:02 a.m on 9th August 1945. It’s unbelievable to think that it was only 67 years ago.

The Museum was, in a nutshell, one of the most harrowing things I’ve ever experienced. I don’t think I spoke for about an hour and a half as I walked around the exhibition, in numb, horrified awe at the complete and utter destruction that humans are capable of inflicting on each other. I won’t go into great detail of the things I read and saw, but suffice to say the exhibition did not hold back on grisly details of the horrific injuries sustained by the poor people who were just going about their lives when the bomb hit. Some of the survivor testimonies were heart-rending too; and actually brought tears to my eyes. There were hundreds of artefacts collected from the wreckage of the city and some of them will stay with me forever. Clocks and watches, dented and smashed, eerily stopped at exactly 11:02, the time the bomb hit. A school girl’s bento (lunch) box, with her name still visible; and the leftovers of her last breakfast of rice, charred black by the intense heat, still inside. Coins, fused together by the incredible heat. Ripped, blood-stained clothing belonging to people who literally burst into flames, miles from the hypocentre.

A clock from the exhibition, eerily stopped at 11:02, the time the bomb hit. N.B: this is not my photo. I didn't want to take photos inside the exhibition as I felt it was disrespectful, although some foreign tourists were snapping away as though they were at Disneyland. I just feel that this image captures the horrific essence of that day and it moved me so much that I wanted to share it.

Photographs too numerous to mention; but one in particular will stay with me. The intense heat generated by an atomic bomb is so strong that people within a few kilometres of the blast were completely vaporised. I saw a photograph of the closed shutters over a shop window, charred black, with the paler outline of the man who had been stood outside when the bomb hit. He was simply vaporised, his body leaving an outline on the shutters.

It’s truly terrifying to think that these ungodly weapons are still commonplace, and that at any moment could be used. I left the exhibition speechless with horror that anyone could even consider using such a monstrous weapon. We simply cannot use nuclear weapons. It would be suicide.

After the museum, we were understandbly feeling weak and overwhelmed. We crossed the road to the Peace Park, Nagasaki’s memorial to the many thousands of people who lost their lives on that day. It’s built on the hypocentre of the bomb. The hypocentre is the place directly below where atomic bombs explode, as they actually explode several hundred feet above the ground, creating the famous mushroom cloud. It was very, very strange to walk through the park and think/imagine the horrors that unfolded there just 67 short years ago. Apparently vegetation wasn’t expected to grow for 80 years, so it’s quite something to see grass and trees growing there, although (was it my imagination, or the cold of winter?) the grass was yellow and withered-looking. We took some pictures at the Peace Statue; and at the Fountain of Peace; a beautiful fountain built to honour those who died of terrible burns, begging for water. Although it was a very difficult and upsetting experience, I’m very glad I went to the Museum. It’s made me more grateful than ever for my life; and more determined than ever to oppose these dreadful weapons of mass destruction as long as I live.

Now, onto happier things. As already mentioned, we were lucky enough to visit Nagasaki during the city’s famous annual lantern festival. The city’s dark, tragic past and vibrant, colourful present cannot be embodied more vividly than a visit to the Atomic Bomb Museum followed by experiencing the lantern festival. Nagasaki has a lot of past and current ties with China, and so many Chinese tourists flock to the city in February to see the lanterns. The city was therefore swarming with people, many of whom were scratching their heads, looking at their maps and trying to find the elusive Chinese street dancers like we were! The lanterns were beautiful by day with their vibrant colours and incredibly intricate shapes- everything from koi carp, to dragons, to tigers. But it was by night, of course, that they really came to life. The city was illuminated by thousands of lanterns and was incredibly beautiful. We had a wonderful time just wandering round in the evenings, admiring the beautiful, softly glowing colours.

Another major attraction in Nagasaki is the whimsically named Spectacles Bridge, a double-arched bridge that supposedly looks like a pair of glasses because of the reflection in the canal. Although it was undeniably pretty, especially surrounded by beautiful lanterns, us Brits were completely bemused as to why it was a tourist attraction. Bridges like that are very common at home, so we couldn’t understand why it was on the tourist map and surrounded by people excitedly snapping photos! I guess bridges like that must be a rare sight in Japan.

Spectacles Bridge

And so that was Nagasaki! A city with a tragic past, but a vibrant and beautiful present. Now, onto my next trip…..

Carving my first snow in Hokkaido

Only three days after I returned from Nagasaki, I headed north to Japan’s snowy wilderness, Hokkaido. Although I felt a bit cheeky going on two trips in a row, my argument is that I’m only going to be in Japan for two years, so I have to make the most of every opportunity I get to travel!

Before I came to Japan, I made up my mind to see the famous Sapporo Yuki Matsuri (snow festival), so I had been looking forward to this trip for weeks. As many of you know, I live very, very far south in Japan. So far south that the climate is subtropical and unbelievably humid, even on some winter days. You may not be familiar with the geography of Japan, so allow me to explain. My home is pretty much as far south as you can go in Japan, and Hokkaido is about as far north as you can go. To get from Sendai to Sapporo is basically a journey across the entire length of Japan. It’s a long way! Therefore, I broke up the journey with a halfway overnight stop in Kobe. Thankfully I’d already experienced the culinary nirvana that is Kobe beef on my first visit to the city in October, so I wasn’t too disappointed in missing out on it this time. After a few hours sleep, me and my travel buddy Alberto started the long journey to Sapporo.

Hokkaido is Japan’s northernmost island and is its wilderness; apparently on a par with the Canadian Rockies or New Zealand’s South Island. Vast stretches of it remain uninhabited; and the scenery is utterly stunning. It’s famous for amazing seafood and crab, courtesy of the cold, rich seawater that surrounds it, butter, sweetcorn, bears, melon and SNOW. It’s also the last stronghold of Japan’s indigenous people, the Ainu. Although an island, Hokkaido is HUGE and it takes about eight hours to drive across it. It has a wild frontier spirit that felt so much different from the south. As a huge fan of both snow and wild scenery, I was hugely excited to get there.

We arrived in Sapporo, Hokkaido’s buzzing capital, on a bright, sunny and bitingly cold Thursday morning. The cold really was unbelievable- I’d been warned and had come armed with many layers, but unfortunately I forgot to put them on in the rush to leave the hostel in Kobe at 5 a.m that morning so spent the day with very numb legs! We met up with other members of the group- there were nearly 40 people from all over Japan and it was really great to meet ALTs from other prefectures. After stocking up on essentials (in my case, a belt to stop my jeans falling down and a neck warmer/face cover to stop my head getting frostbite while snowboarding!), it was time to start sightseeing. The snow was amazing, one or two metres thick and most of the pavements were covered with a couple of feet of hard, packed snow that had turned to ice. The Sapporo Snow Festival, in its 63rd year, draws thousands of people from all over the world every year. I was really excited to see my first ice sculptures; a phoenix and a dragon. They looked absolutely stunning sparkling in the sunshine against the bright blue sky.

No blue sky but still a very pretty peacock.

After some shopping and a much needed bowl of steaming hot, famous Sapporo miso butter ramen noodles, We took an elevator to the top of the Sapporo Television Tower; a really tall building with great views over the city to the mountains beyond.

The Sapporo Television Tower. Not the prettiest building in the world, but surely it has one of the best views....

Beautiful Sapporo, as seen from the Television Tower

While in the Tower gift shop I spotted the most hideous, hilarious souvenirs I’ve ever seen. Hokkaido is famous for bears, melons and crabs. So how to make a souvenir promoting this fact? Combine all three, obviously, and make them into fridge magnets. Oh, and make sure that the bear isn’t ‘kawaii’ (cute), cuddly and smiley, like absolutely everything else in Japan, but angry and terrifying, and bearing sharp fangs. I nearly bought one, but then realised that I’d have to look at it every day and changed my mind!

Coming soon to a fridge near you: cornbear, the horror of Hokkaido.

In the evening the Snow Festival really got going. There was a festive, almost Christmassy atmosphere throughout the city as the sun went down and the snow party really got started. We were thrilled to find a hot wine bar run by a Belgian man- all of a sudden it was like being back at home in Nottingham during the Christmas markets!

Mmm, hot cherry wine 🙂

After a few cups of the stuff (a perfect antidote to the cold) we were in the dancing mood and joined in with some crazy young Japanese guys who were dancing in little more than vests, despite the fact that it was about -20 degrees C! The snow sculptures were amazing- there were whole stages carved out of snow, a replica of the Taj Mahal, and an amazing seascape with giant dolphins, seals, walruses and whales. And of course, dozens of statues of Japan’s many cute and much-loved anime (cartoon) characters.

Chopper from One Piece, a VERY famous Japanese cartoon.

Ampanman, another very famous Japanese cartoon. His head is made out of bread and when people are hungry, he lets them take a bite. Of course.

The Taj Mahal against the stunning Sapporo night sky

After a very long day sightseeing, everyone met up for dinner at an all you can eat meat restaurant, then finally got on a coach for the 2.5 hour journey into the mountains. By this point I’d been on the go for 16 hours on 4 hours sleep, so I was beyond tired and after claiming a seat at the back (once a cool kid, always a cool kid) I promptly went to sleep. I awoke about an hour later when we had a toilet break at a remote rest stop, and I was astounded when I stumbled sleepily off the coach. I thought the snow in Sapporo was a lot, but this was unbelievable! Imagine Narnia, but with about 2 metres more snow and you’ve got it. I have always loved snow; I think it’s incredibly beautiful and very mysterious. I love the way it blankets everything and muffles sound.  In fact, when I’m stressed out or upset I often imagine walking through a beautiful, silent, deserted snowy landscape, so it was quite something to see it right before my eyes.

We finally got to our hotel at about midnight, and everyone basically crashed and got a few hours sleep, ready for the first morning of snowy fun.

We were in Niseko, one of Japan’s premier snowsports resorts; and apparently its powder is some of the best in the world. For the first time in months I was surrounded by a lot of foreigners- Australians especially love to visit Niseko and many come very year.  For the first time, English was being spoken by everyone around me. It was strange but it made quite a nice change! I almost forgot I was in Japan for two days.

Niseko

I’d never tried snowsports before, so I was excited but nervous to begin my two days of snowboarding lessons. Unfortunately, things got off to a very bad start and due to not being given any information or guidance; I ended up over an hour late for my first day. But thankfully, I got a few hours of one on one tuition which somewhat made up for it. I’m sure everyone feels out of their depth when they first start snowboarding, but even knowing this didn’t prepare me for how utterly unbalanced and disorientated I felt! I started on pretty much flat ground, and even that was difficult to stay upright in.  Eventually, we progressed to slightly steeper slopes, although they were still probably flat to pros.

The weather on the first day was really bad- blizzards all day and pretty much zero visibility at times. It was apparently really tough even for experienced people to board in. If you’ve never boarded before, allow me to try and explain what it’s like. Imagine being strapped onto a slippery dinner tray on a steep, snow-covered mountain, and trying to stay upright while annoyingly experiences skiers and boarders whizz past you, somersaulting and doing fancy tricks. Not easy! However, by the end of the first day, although I was exhausted and bruised from several spectacular wipe-outs, I enjoyed it and was keen to get back to the slopes the following day.

On the first night, nine of us unfortunately had to move hotels due to overbooking. While this was a pain at first, it turned out to be a blessing in disguise because the new lodge was absolutely wonderful. It was run by a very sarcastic, hilariously funny Australian guy who employed what seemed to be a whole family of jolly Austrians. It was really cosy, warm and not only did it have a hot bath, but also a sauna! Bliss! I just have to stress once more, in case you didn’t get it, just how much snow there was in Niseko and Kutchan, the town we stayed in. There was at least 2 metres- you could easily lose two cars on top of each other! The weird shapes it made on roofs and trees- swirls, cones, spheres, was really beautiful.

On the first night, we had a welcome dinner of lasagne at the original hotel, and a few drinks before heading back to the new lodge and bed. After my first day boarding I was exhausted!

Day two dawned bright and sunny, and I realised that I was actually on a mountain overlooking a beautiful valley, over to another beautiful mountain! The weather had been so bad the day before that I hadn’t even realised. I met a great girl on the second day- a fellow Brit although you’d never know it. She’d been living in Australia for seven years and had married an Aussie, so she sounded basically Australian. She’d been skiing before but it was her first time boarding, like me, so she was a source of great moral support and encouragement on day two, which turned out to be harder than day one for some reason. I’m not sure if it’s because I was tired and a bit achey, or because I knew how much falling over hurt and it made me hesitant, but I felt really nervous and unconfident and it took until the afternoon to get back to where I was on day one. This was really frustrating, so there was a lot of falling over and bashing the ground in frustration! Also, for some reason on day two I lost the ability to be able to get off the chairlift without falling flat on my arse, much to my annoyance and embarrassment. On day one it was fine, but I fell off every single time on day two. Those things are not built for snowboarders!

By the end of day two, something had begun to click and I finally managed to perform a switch (when you do a 360 degree turn), which I was so happy about! It’s such a shame I had to stop after only one day. I think two or three more days and I would have been a hell of a lot more confident. Oh well, it’s another reason to go back next year!

We headed back to the lodge, tired but happy, and finishing the day with a hot shower and a cold chu-hai (Japanese alchopop) in the sauna was absolute bliss. I didn’t realise how hot and sweaty I’d get snowboarding. But actually when you think about it it’s obvious. You’re making a lot of physical effort, and you’re wearing really thick, heavy clothes too so by the end of the day you’re a sweaty mess. On the final night we had a big group dinner planned, but unfortunately the bus turned up 45 minutes early with only about 10 minutes notice. I was in my pyjamas with wet hair and was so tired I couldn’t be bothered to rush to get ready, so I opted to stay at the lodge and have a chilled night by myself. Although I was really sad to miss the group dinner, it was actually great to have a bit of down time. I got talking to other lodge guests and the lodge owner, and ordered some sushi and shared it with one of my new friends. It was really nice to relax after a crazy three days.

By the morning, I’d decided that I wanted to stay forever! Hokkaido really is beautiful and the weather (warm but not brutally hot and humid in the summer, gorgeously snowy in the winter) is right up my street. But Kagoshima was calling, so we started the epic journey back across the entire length of Japan and said goodbye to our new friends. I really did meet some fantastic people on the trip and I very much hope to meet up with them again in the future.

The Northfield Lodge crew waiting for our bus back to Sapporo. Looking a bit tired after three crazy days of snowy fun!

One final addition. Hokkaido really does have the craziest mascots known to man. Just look at this terrifying monstrosity that was at the airport! It’s a combination of two famous Hokkaido things- the bear and the melon. There were actually children crying and pulling away from it, they were so scared! However, with my love of weird and scary things, I simply had to give it a big hug. Embracing a terrifying, snarling, melon-headed bear: what better way to finish my trip to Japan’s wild frontier?

Bye bye Mr Bear

Valentine’s Day

Now I know what you’re thinking. Valentine’s Day?! Soppy, over-the-top, saccharine, gushing Valentine’s Day?! I know, it’s not usually a cause for celebration or excitement for me, but I had to add a little here about it because Valentine’s Day is so different in Japan than at home in the UK or the rest of the west. Unlike western countries, gifts such as greeting cards, flowers and dinner dates are uncommon. In Japan, the romantic “date night” associated with Valentine’s Day in the west is actually celebrated onChristmas Eve Valentine’s Day in Japan is all about chocolate, chocolate chocolate. Japanese chocolate companies make half their annual sales during this time of the year. NOW do you understand why I was so excited about it?! I am the original chocoholic and cannot get through a day without it.

On Valentine’s Day in Japan, women and girls give chocolate to their friends, but especially to males- classmates, co-workers and so on. As always in Japan, it’s governed by strict social rules and etiquette, so it’s all about giving the right type and right amount of chocolate to people. Many women feel obliged to give chocolates to all male co-workers, except when the day falls on a Sunday, a holiday. This is known as giri-choko (義理チョコ), from giri (“obligation”) and choko, (“chocolate”), with unpopular co-workers receiving only “ultra-obligatory” chō-giri choko cheap chocolate. This contrasts with honmei-choko (本命チョコ, favorite chocolate), chocolate given to a loved one. Friends, especially girls, may exchange chocolate referred to as tomo-choko (友チョコ); from tomo meaning “friend”. I got absolutely tonnes of home-made and beautifully presented tomo-choko from my English Conversation Club girls, so I was very pleased!

As Valentine’s Day fell on a Tuesday, one of the two days I have after-school club at Sendai High School, I taught the girls all about Valentine’s Day in the UK-  how it’s really only for couples and if you’re single, you ignore or even actively dislike Valentine’s Day. They were fascinated at the thought of sending cards instead of giving chocolate, and we had a lot of fun making, colouring in and writing our own cards and deciding who to give them to! Due to a combination of forgetting and not having time as I’d only just got back from Hokkaido, I didn’t prepare any cutesy bags of chocolate for my male co-workers so I felt a bit guilty when one of my female colleagues went around the staffroom giving everyone chocolate! Note to self for next year…

ECC members with their Valentine's Day cards

Now I’m sure the feminists among you are indignantly saying “what?! Don’t the women get any chocolate from the men?!” Of course they do! One month later on 14th March is a ‘reply’ day called White Day, when men are expected to return the favour to those who gave them chocolates on Valentine’s Day. Men are expected to return gifts that are at least two or three times more valuable than the gifts received in Valentine’s Day. Not returning the gift is perceived as the man placing himself in a position of superiority, even if excuses are given. Returning a present of equal value is considered as a way to say that you are cutting the relationship. Originally only chocolate was given, but now gifts of jewellery, accessories, clothing and lingerie are common (although I imagine in the office, just chocolate is given in return!). According to the official website of White Day, the colour white was chosen because it’s the colour of purity, evoking “pure, sweet teen love”, and because it’s also the colour of sugar. The initial name was “Ai ni Kotaeru White Day” (Answer Love on White Day).

So now you know!

My birthday week

And so onto the final awesome event of February- my birthday! Those of you who know me well will know that I’ve never been one to hide from my birthday or, ahem, not tell everyone I know/random people in the street that my birthday is coming up. I love birthdays! I don’t understand why some people are shy/not bothered about them. It’s the one day that’s all about you, when you can do exactly what you want to, AND you get lots of lovely cards and presents. What’s not to love?! Ok, the getting old part isn’t so great. I was a little apprehensive about turning 27, but as everyone thinks I’m 21/22 I can live with it. I’ve never had a birthday in a foreign country before, so I was pretty excited.

My birthday fell on a Tuesday and I was at Sendai High School, my base school. Throughout January and February, I didn’t have my regular first year oral communication classes at Sendai High School, but I worked exclusively with one teacher, Morinaga Sensei, and small groups of very clever third year students, helping them with reading and writing practice for the heinously difficult university entrance exams . Some of them were going to take the Tokyo and Kyoto University entrance exams- the equivalent of Oxford and Cambridge in the UK, and Harvard in the US. We’re talking scarily smart kids here- far smarter than I am! I got really close to Morinaga Sensei and the students (mostly boys) in the classes throughout January and February. I was very sad to have my last lesson with them the other week, knowing that I would never see them again. Even though I went to his office several times a day, Morinaga Sensei or his adorable office assistant would insist on making me coffee and piling sweet snacks on me. The other teachers who worked in his office are all wonderfully friendly and I had many funny conversations with them over the two months that I worked with Morinaga Sensei. I was almost sorry to get back to regular classes last week.

Anyway, I digress. Amazingly, I found out that Morinaga Sensei shared my birthday! What a coincidence. I got him a birthday card and made sure that I subtly told everyone (despite his protests) that we have the same birthday. I also went to Mon Cherie, the posh local patisserie and bought some cake for everyone. In Japan, they don’t have the European custom of bringing cake into work on your birthday, so they were all really thrilled and excited! Later in the week I took some cake to my other school too, and they were thrilled too.

My birthday itself was an absolutely wonderful day and it was really nice to share it with Morinaga Sensei, especially as we had two classes together. I had been saving all the cards I’d received from home so I had an opening session before work; I love getting mail from home! In the afternoon, the English Conversation Club girls summoned me to our little classroom. I was so thrilled- they’d made a beautiful blackboard mural, bought me Japanese books, and made me a beautiful card. All the members of ECC and all the English teachers had written a message, and some of what they said really moved me. I was so touched! All day I got sung to- in the corridor, in class, in the cafeteria. It was a really special day. In the evening, some friends and I went for dinner at the aptly named ‘Ami’s Diner’. They helped to make the day really special.

Me and members of ECC, in front of the lovely blackboard mural they made for me.

The wonderful card that ECC made for me. Every member and all the English teachers wrote a really lovely message.

The fun didn’t end there though! For the next week (yes, really!) my birthday fun continued. I was overwhelmed by the love and kindness shown to me by my students and colleagues at both my schools. And my friends and family at home surpassed themselves with generosity- thank you so much for the wonderful presents everyone! I didn’t get to Satsuma Chuo High School, my rural school, until the day after my birthday and apparently the students were all really disappointed that they hadn’t been able to see me on my birthday, bless them. On the Wednesday and the Friday I was presented with even more beautiful handmade cards from students, I was sung to, and given some really thoughtful presents from my colleagues. I already feel like a celebrity in Sendai, but now I feel like a princess too!

Me with Class 1G1 at Satsuma Chuo High School

1G1's lovely blackboard mural

With class 2 Sou at Satsuma Chuo High School

Amazing personalised birthday chocolates from 2 sou!

On the Saturday after my birthday, I had my big party and it was so much fun. Around 27 people came, many ALTs but some of my Japanese friends and acquaintances too. It was really wonderful to get everyone together and I had a great night, rounded off with a good old-fashioned sleepover with four of my friends.

My birthday, week and weekend in Japan was really wonderful and I’m still on a high!

And so that was February. Wow, what a month! When I look back over all I’ve written I really do feel grateful to have been able to see and experience so much in just 29 short days. March is looking to be equally as amazing, with my long-awaited trip to New Zealand coming up in just two and a half weeks. No doubt I’ll have another essay to write after that, so until then, thank you for reading and be well.

From Notts to Nippon: Six Months In

Wow. On 31st January, it was a full six months since I arrived in Japan and stepped off the plane at Narita Airport, ready to begin my new life as an ALT on the JET Programme. I can’t quite believe it! I think now is a very good time to reflect on my first six months here, and the crazy rollercoaster of emotions and experiences I have been on.

Has it gone quickly? Yes. Has it gone slowly? Yes. Does leaving England, my family and friends behind six months ago feel like another lifetime? YES. Time is a very strange thing. I’ve realised that it is curiously elastic, and can seem both fast and slow at the same time. Sometimes, I  feel like I arrived only last week and still don’t have a clue what I’m doing. Very much Amy In Wonderland, every day a tumble down the rabbit hole where cats and rabbits reside in fancy little houses, and are dressed in shoes and hats and trousers.

But at other times, I feel like I’ve been here, brushing my teeth in front of my colleagues, taking my shoes off automatically when entering a tatami or carpeted room, putting my hands together and saying ‘itadakimas’ (“I humbly receive”) before every meal and sleeping on a futon on the floor my whole life.

When I look back over all I have seen, done, thought and experienced over just six, let’s be frank, very short months, I am astonished. So much of it has been wonderful, inspiring and eye-opening that it’s hard to sum up my best moments. I’ve met some incredible people who have changed my life for the better. Although I’ve only known them for six short months, it feels like a lifetime because we have been through so much together. The experience of living in a foreign country is an intense one, and every moment is shared with the few fellow gaijin (foreigners) around you. Each person’s triumphs and frustrations are everyone else’s. I can’t imagine my life without my new friends and I feel very grateful to have met them. You know who you are!

I’ve also been lucky enough to have already done plenty of travelling in Japan, and I have been astounded at the beauty, history, culture and traditions of this wonderful country. I’ve been to Kyoto and Osaka twice, and been amazed both times at the contrast between them. Kyoto is where you’ll find everything stereotypically Japanese: colourful shrines, breathtaking temples, beautiful geisha, quiet, refined dignity and thousands of years of Japanese history and culture. Osaka, on the other hand, is a brash, in-your-face, doesn’t-give-a-damn, neon-lit party city of human peacocks who strut down streets crowned with giant, illuminated, moving plastic crabs.

This month, I have trips to Nagasaki and Hokkaido to look forward to and I’m constantly adding more “I want to go there” pins to my kitchen wall map of Japan. My new project is to buy a dangly Hello Kitty phone charm in every place I visit, and pin it to the map. It’s already looking pretty colourful! It’s a nice way to visually map where I’ve been and where I want to go, and it’s an excellent excuse to indulge my bizarre, can’t-explain-it obsession with Japan’s most famous feline export. I couldn’t care less about ‘Kitty-Chan’ when I arrived in Japan, and could not understand the Japanese obsession with her. Old, young, male, female, everybody loves Kitty-Chan. However, six months in and I have been fully initiated to the cult of Kitty. All hail Kitty White and her sister Mimmy (oh God, I need help). Japan’s ‘kawaii’ (cute) culture has hit me full force and I’m powerless to resist!

Anyway, I digress. So yes, I’ve been to many amazing places and I’m planning to go to many more while I’m here. Next, the Japanese people. I’ve been continually touched by the warmth, kindness and acceptance shown to me by the local people, and their never-ending streams of compliments on everything from my (frankly in desperate need of a cut and highlights) blonde hair, to my ‘small face’, to my chopstick skills, to my ‘awesome’ Japanese skills (ahem, they’re very generous too). Whenever I need help, there is someone there to give it to me. From my colleagues, to the mix of young and old people I teach at an evening class, to the hilarious people I play basketball with, to my guitar teacher, to Yuki, the wonderful woman who is like a Japanese mother to all the Sendai ALTs, I am continually touched by the kindness and acceptance shown to me. My students too, overall, are an absolute joy and make me smile every day. I’m sorry to sound so cliqued and gushing, but seeing their smiling, thrilled faces and hearing their excited cries of “Amy! Amy! I love you! You are beautiful! Cute! Cute!” every day really makes it all worthwhile. Although I teach students aged 16-18, I often forget this because they are so childlike. Where else in the world do young adults have fluffy toys attached to their bags and answer with “Snoopy!” or “Hello Kitty!” when you ask them what their favourite thing is? Childhood here is long, or rather, is actually a childhood, and it’s so refreshing to see that youngsters here really are children until they reach 20, the official adult age in Japan. It’s made me realise how fast children at home grow up and how quickly they lose their innocence.

One cannot possibly write about six months in Japan without mentioning the food. The food! Oh the food. Mostly amazing. I’m obsessed with sushi. I can’t get enough of tuna mayonnaise onigiri. I adore edamame. I love ramen. I am addicted to Japanese cakes and chocolate (NO ONE warns you that Japan is full of divine, sinfully sweet treats. The popular stereotype that it’s all healthy rice, miso soup and sushi is so inaccurate it makes me laugh everyday!). Soba is delicious. Japanese curry, although not spicy at all, is moreish. Eel, believe it or not, is very good. However, I have of course found some foods that I’m not fond of! Umeboshi (pickled, dried, salted plums) is a Japanese delicacy but I’m not a fan and I can’t eat it without pulling a face like a bulldog sucking a lemon. I also cannot fathom the fact that what to me looks like soggy cabbage and smells exactly like a bin that desperately needs emptying is for some reason relished by many people. I can’t deal with whole fish. I don’t like my food to look at me when I’m about to eat it, thank you very much. I really don’t enjoy the fact that the rubbery fat is left on meat. Sometimes I crave DIFFERENT food, because it really is hard to find anything except Japanese food. But aside from these squeamish and typically Western qualms, Japanese food is always interesting and exciting and I can certainly tick some weird and wonderful foods off the Try Before You Die list. Chicken sashimi anyone (yes, it’s raw chicken, a speciality of my prefecture)? Newsflash: it tastes like raw chicken. Not great, but I did it. Cow intestine soup? Suprisingly good. Fish sperm? Actually, I haven’t tried that yet and I can’t say I’m tempted! Apparently it’s a delicacy at ‘real’ sushi restaurants……

Ok, I’ve harped on about how great it’s been for long enough now. There are two sides to every story, and six months living in Wonderland is not all roses, dreamy smiles and happiness. There have been many times over the past six months when I have wanted to jack it all in and just come home. I’ve worked 13 hour days on 2 hours’ sleep and been so exhausted I’ve practically hallucinated. I’ve been thrown in at the deep end, attempting (with no real training) to teach English to a class of 40 teenagers, who can be unruly, disrespectful and intimidating on one day, and silent, blank-faced and unresponsive on another day. I’ve had to cope every day with the crushing fact that I am pretty much illiterate and have to rely on other people to help me with even the simplest of daily tasks. I’ve lost the ability to cook, and it’s now an event if I whip up something even as simple as an omelette, which I barely considered as cooking at home. I miss my family and friends so much, along with things as mundane as the pub, the Sunday Times, central heating and Cadbury chocolate. Homesickness and culture shock can be all-consuming. I’ve got to the point when I’ve felt physically sick from missing loved ones. I’ve had to learn to try and cope by myself a lot more, which for me, a serial pack animal, has been a very difficult thing to come to terms with. I’ve had to adjust from living in a vibrant, busy city with countless food, entertainment and drinking options to a small, sleepy town where there isn’t a huge amount to do. I’ve become completely reliant on my laptop to keep me connected with family and friends outside of Japan, and when it decides to have a hissy fit (like it has for over a week now), I feel scarily isolated and I suddenly realise how far away everyone is. I’ve battled for hours trying to learn some of the famously complicated language, cursing my inability to remember vocabulary and sentence structure. As well as all of this, the biggest challenge of all is simply learning to fit in every day, be it at school, on the bus, in the supermarket or while taking a naked bath at the local onsen (hot springs) with several old Japanese ladies (so much etiquette involved I will not even go there). Adjusting to a new culture, new social norms and expectations, and learning to accept, adapt and overcome, is probably the biggest challenge I’ll ever encounter.

Although it has been the most physically, mentally and psychologically challenging six months of my life, I wouldn’t change any of it. All of the above challenges have shaped and coloured my first six months here and made me so much stronger as a person. I know that I’ll look back on it all, laugh, cry, clack my false teeth and say “flippin’ ‘eck. That was one hell of a six months!”

Thank you for reading. I’m looking forward to rambling on much more over my next six months in Japan!

Oh Sendai

This was going to be a Facebook status update but it got too long!

I’ve lived in Satsumasendai for nearly five months and it still suprises/baffles me on an almost daily basis. Today (Saturday) is no exception. Here is a rundown of my morning so far.

7 a.m: woken by the usual wake up music, which is played from loudspeakers all over town at 7 a.m EVERY day. Yes, even Saturdays and Sundays! I don’t think the hard-working Japanese really ‘do’ lie-ins. Sometimes it wakes me up (which on week days is a good thing, and on weekends is most definitely NOT good), and other times I manage to sleep through it. Music is also played over the town loudspeakers at 12 p.m, 5 p.m and in the summer, 6 p.m. I can never make my mind up if I like it or not. Although it’s nice to know the time without having to look at my watch, it’s a little Big Brother-esque if I’m honest and at first it freaked me out. Every house also has a box on the kitchen wall so that the music and town announcements can be played directly into every home. Now that is definitely too Nineteen Eighty Four for me- I unplugged mine as soon as I moved in.

7:10: startled out of almost sleep by the horrific End Of The World sirens which occasionally blast out at any time of day or night, for no apparent reason. They really are terrifying and immediately lead you to believe that a cataclysmic natural disaster or a terrorist attack is just seconds away.

7:15: a rambling town announcement over the loudspeakers. Unfortunately, these almost daily bulletins are unfathomable to me because my Japanese is rubbish. Thankfully, Miyuki, the lovely Japanese wife of Jonathan, a fellow ALT, always tells us if it’s something important.

Approximately 7:20 (all hope of a Saturday morning lie-in abandoned now): a chorus of what sounds like twenty fire engines begins driving round and round the block, sirens wailing all at different times, creating a deafening and discordant racket. By now I’m cowering under my blanket, fingers in my ears, praying for it to stop and let me go back to sleep (the words I used were actually a litle more colourful than that, but as this is a family-friendly blog I will refrain from repeating them!). Incredibly, the racket continues for ten whole minutes, although it seemed like an hour. Unless there is an all-consuming Fire of Hell nearby and I’m about to be cooked alive, why, I thought in complete bewilderment, WHY are they doing this at such an ungodly hour on a Saturday morning?!

Later on, Miyuki sent us all a message: “the purpose of this “festival” is to pray for no fire accidents for this New Year.” It was a festival. A siren-blasting, deafening, let’s wake everybody up in utter panic festival. Only in Japan!

This morning, the most exciting event of my weekend and indeed of the past four days of being housebound with a severe cold/sore throat is taking place- I’m having my mouldy shower door replaced. Yes, really! It’s almost too much excitement to cope with. The workmen were scheduled to arrive at 11 a.m, so at 10 a.m I was casually catching up with emails in my very fetching leopard-print pyjamas (a welcome Christmas present from my parents- thank you M and D!). The doorbell rang of course, as it only does when I’m either undressed, in the shower or dressed in a rather eccentric way (I once answered the door to the Postman in blue and pink spotty pyjama bottoms and an anorak. Well, they were the closest things to hand!). I’m a pretty interesting sight today, with unbrushed just-got-out-of-bed hair, leopard print pyjama bottoms, bright pink fluffy bootie slippers (Matthew says I must have murdered one of the Muppets to make them. Charming) and after four days of being so ill I generally look like something caught in a drain. Not pretty. It was the shower door workmen of course, a whole hour early. Workmen, early?! Never. In England I’d probably still be sat here twiddling my thumbs at 12 p.m waiting for them to arrive.

Only in Japan.